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#1
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Regards, Hanno -------------------------- |
#2
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Hi Tony
I'll be reinstalling the windscreens on my HUP this week so I'll have a chance to see what could be causing the problem. If my memory is correct the windows should swing down so that the outer "T" gasket is nicely seated and the frame is flush with the outside frame. Did you have the two hinge sides apart at the same time? My thinking is that if the inner or outer parts got exchanged that could be causing a problem as then might not be seating well together. Cheers Phil
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Phil Waterman `41 C60L Pattern 12 `42 C60S Radio Pattern 13 `45 HUP http://canadianmilitarypattern.com/ New e-mail Philip@canadianmilitarypattern.com |
#3
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Phil,
I suspect that is the problem. Frame and hinge parts are from two different sets. The original hinge for this frame is quite poor, as a previous owner had taken to it with a grinder to grind off the bolt heads attaching it to the window support frame. I would not be happy to use that damaged piece as it is, and repair might not be a viable option. On Saturday I will try and find a suitable replacement amongst my parts stores. I think there are another 2 or 3 which may be usable. At very least, the current hinge may be good for the driver side frame. Just when you think things are going well.................stuff happens ![]() Wouldn't it be grand if parts fit well.......................or at all, in some cases like this? At least the rubber set is ready for installing. I finished these last night, while listening to television.
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Ford CMP, 115" WB,1942 (Under Restoration...still) Medium sized, half fake, artillery piece project. (The 1/4 Pounder) |
#4
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Window rubber seals 1.jpg
Any thoughts on best option for rubber glue I can use to join the corners of these external weather seals? The rubber in the glass channel will be self sealing & won't require glue.
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Ford CMP, 115" WB,1942 (Under Restoration...still) Medium sized, half fake, artillery piece project. (The 1/4 Pounder) |
#5
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I'm sure there'd be a lot more in the way of rubber glue available nowadays, but the same thing would hold true I imagine, ie. get something that actually dissolves the rubber surfaces, to produce a weld joint as opposed to an adherent joint.
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One of the original Australian CMP hunters. |
#6
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Yeah, thats the sort of thing I would like to be using.
And I remember those vulcanising patches for tyre tubes, that you put into a clamp, then set it alight. The heat would weld the patch to the tube. What ever happened to those? Perhaps in these enlightened times, they are no longer available, in case someone got burnt fingers but would insist on blaming the manufacturer rather than accept responsibility for their actions! I fear there may actually be LESS better glues today, because of potential risk of misuse etc. P.S: I hope you have a better hair-cut these days ![]()
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Ford CMP, 115" WB,1942 (Under Restoration...still) Medium sized, half fake, artillery piece project. (The 1/4 Pounder) |
#7
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Ford Tie Rod Ends x2.jpg
Do these look like Ford CMP tie rod ends???
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Ford CMP, 115" WB,1942 (Under Restoration...still) Medium sized, half fake, artillery piece project. (The 1/4 Pounder) |
#8
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How about this one Tony? The 5th Masters Apprentice....?
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One of the original Australian CMP hunters. |
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