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  #1  
Old 18-06-12, 23:09
Hanno Spoelstra's Avatar
Hanno Spoelstra Hanno Spoelstra is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tony Wheeler View Post
Hopefully that makes a bit more sense than my previous post. It's all about the profile of a blitz chassis rail, which tapers from the midsection towards the rear section.
This was discussed in a thread on a chopped Ford for sale in Belgium:
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Originally Posted by Hanno Spoelstra View Post
Alex, AFAIK both the long and short chassis had tapered rear ends - see attached pics from Keith's web page www.oldcmp.net/Lloyd_Cab12_FGT_1.html

Is seems the Belgian one is indeed a shortened F60L, the chassis being lobbed before the point where the side rails taper upwards.
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  #2  
Old 19-06-12, 00:37
Phil Waterman Phil Waterman is offline
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Default Windscreen Hinge

Hi Tony

I'll be reinstalling the windscreens on my HUP this week so I'll have a chance to see what could be causing the problem. If my memory is correct the windows should swing down so that the outer "T" gasket is nicely seated and the frame is flush with the outside frame.

Did you have the two hinge sides apart at the same time? My thinking is that if the inner or outer parts got exchanged that could be causing a problem as then might not be seating well together.

Cheers Phil
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  #3  
Old 19-06-12, 10:40
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Tony Baker
 
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Default Window frame hinge problem

Phil,

I suspect that is the problem. Frame and hinge parts are from two different sets. The original hinge for this frame is quite poor, as a previous owner had taken to it with a grinder to grind off the bolt heads attaching it to the window support frame.

I would not be happy to use that damaged piece as it is, and repair might not be a viable option. On Saturday I will try and find a suitable replacement amongst my parts stores. I think there are another 2 or 3 which may be usable. At very least, the current hinge may be good for the driver side frame.

Just when you think things are going well.................stuff happens .

Wouldn't it be grand if parts fit well.......................or at all, in some cases like this?

At least the rubber set is ready for installing. I finished these last night, while listening to television.
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Ford CMP, 115" WB,1942 (Under Restoration...still)
Medium sized, half fake, artillery piece project. (The 1/4 Pounder)
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  #4  
Old 19-06-12, 12:00
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Tony Baker
 
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Default Window seals

Window rubber seals 1.jpg
Any thoughts on best option for rubber glue I can use to join the corners of these external weather seals?

The rubber in the glass channel will be self sealing & won't require glue.
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Ford CMP, 115" WB,1942 (Under Restoration...still)
Medium sized, half fake, artillery piece project. (The 1/4 Pounder)
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  #5  
Old 19-06-12, 17:33
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Tony Wheeler Tony Wheeler is offline
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Attachment 50010
Any thoughts on best option for rubber glue I can use to join the corners of these external weather seals?
This advice may be a little out of date, but 40 years ago I used the glue from my bicycle puncture repair kit! I think it was called "vulcanizing glue" because it actually melted/dissolved the rubber, as opposed to contact glue which can be peeled off hard rubber, leaving it unmarked. It was very effective on inner tubes, just as good as a proper vulcanizing patch, ie. the type with the flammable impregnated cardboard stuff you lit with a match. It helped a lot to rough up the puncture area with coarse sandpaper, so I probably did that to the cut ends of the window frame rubber too. Anyway I recall it worked quite well, and the glue joint seems to be holding in this pic. That's me eating the sandwich, with Keith's girlfriend out for a ride in my new blitz, while Keith rode in the sigvan. No doubt she preferred the Ford!

I'm sure there'd be a lot more in the way of rubber glue available nowadays, but the same thing would hold true I imagine, ie. get something that actually dissolves the rubber surfaces, to produce a weld joint as opposed to an adherent joint.
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File Type: jpg Keith 49.jpg (39.3 KB, 38 views)
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  #6  
Old 20-06-12, 10:58
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Tony Baker
 
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Default Tony

Yeah, thats the sort of thing I would like to be using.

And I remember those vulcanising patches for tyre tubes, that you put into a clamp, then set it alight. The heat would weld the patch to the tube. What ever happened to those? Perhaps in these enlightened times, they are no longer available, in case someone got burnt fingers but would insist on blaming the manufacturer rather than accept responsibility for their actions!

I fear there may actually be LESS better glues today, because of potential risk of misuse etc.

P.S: I hope you have a better hair-cut these days . You looked like the proverbial '5th Beetle'.
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Ford CMP, 115" WB,1942 (Under Restoration...still)
Medium sized, half fake, artillery piece project. (The 1/4 Pounder)
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  #7  
Old 20-06-12, 11:39
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Default CMP Tie Rod Ends???

Ford Tie Rod Ends x2.jpg
Do these look like Ford CMP tie rod ends???
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Ford CMP, 115" WB,1942 (Under Restoration...still)
Medium sized, half fake, artillery piece project. (The 1/4 Pounder)
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  #8  
Old 21-06-12, 15:10
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Tony Wheeler Tony Wheeler is offline
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P.S: I hope you have a better hair-cut these days . You looked like the proverbial '5th Beetle'.
How about this one Tony? The 5th Masters Apprentice....?
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