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  #1  
Old 19-06-12, 12:00
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Tony Baker
 
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Default Window seals

Window rubber seals 1.jpg
Any thoughts on best option for rubber glue I can use to join the corners of these external weather seals?

The rubber in the glass channel will be self sealing & won't require glue.
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Ford CMP, 115" WB,1942 (Under Restoration...still)
Medium sized, half fake, artillery piece project. (The 1/4 Pounder)
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  #2  
Old 19-06-12, 17:33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Private_collector View Post
Attachment 50010
Any thoughts on best option for rubber glue I can use to join the corners of these external weather seals?
This advice may be a little out of date, but 40 years ago I used the glue from my bicycle puncture repair kit! I think it was called "vulcanizing glue" because it actually melted/dissolved the rubber, as opposed to contact glue which can be peeled off hard rubber, leaving it unmarked. It was very effective on inner tubes, just as good as a proper vulcanizing patch, ie. the type with the flammable impregnated cardboard stuff you lit with a match. It helped a lot to rough up the puncture area with coarse sandpaper, so I probably did that to the cut ends of the window frame rubber too. Anyway I recall it worked quite well, and the glue joint seems to be holding in this pic. That's me eating the sandwich, with Keith's girlfriend out for a ride in my new blitz, while Keith rode in the sigvan. No doubt she preferred the Ford!

I'm sure there'd be a lot more in the way of rubber glue available nowadays, but the same thing would hold true I imagine, ie. get something that actually dissolves the rubber surfaces, to produce a weld joint as opposed to an adherent joint.
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  #3  
Old 20-06-12, 10:58
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Tony Baker
 
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Default Tony

Yeah, thats the sort of thing I would like to be using.

And I remember those vulcanising patches for tyre tubes, that you put into a clamp, then set it alight. The heat would weld the patch to the tube. What ever happened to those? Perhaps in these enlightened times, they are no longer available, in case someone got burnt fingers but would insist on blaming the manufacturer rather than accept responsibility for their actions!

I fear there may actually be LESS better glues today, because of potential risk of misuse etc.

P.S: I hope you have a better hair-cut these days . You looked like the proverbial '5th Beetle'.
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Ford CMP, 115" WB,1942 (Under Restoration...still)
Medium sized, half fake, artillery piece project. (The 1/4 Pounder)
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  #4  
Old 20-06-12, 11:39
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Default CMP Tie Rod Ends???

Ford Tie Rod Ends x2.jpg
Do these look like Ford CMP tie rod ends???
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Ford CMP, 115" WB,1942 (Under Restoration...still)
Medium sized, half fake, artillery piece project. (The 1/4 Pounder)
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  #5  
Old 20-06-12, 14:31
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Cameron Reed Cameron Reed is offline
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Default adhesive for rubber

An option would be loctite I think it is 420 very handy and strong, most bearing places should have some. It is used to make oddball o-rings from round or square cord, I have used many times and have never had any failures someone at the bearing shop should be able to clarify the product, if you keep it in the fridge it helps to keep for a good time.
enjoying the ride so far keep up the good work
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  #6  
Old 20-06-12, 23:12
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Keith Webb Keith Webb is offline
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Default Tie rod ends

Quote:
Originally Posted by Private_collector View Post
Attachment 50024
Do these look like Ford CMP tie rod ends???
No, the CMP tie rod ends are threaded over the tie rod, not into it.
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42 FGT No8 (Aust) remains
42 FGT No9 (Aust)
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  #7  
Old 21-06-12, 10:54
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Default Tie Rods & rubber glues

Oh what a bastard! I thought I was onto two of these really cheap.

On a different note, I have bought several types of glues to test for jointing the corners of outer window frame rubber seal. The best found so far is Loctite Super Glue 'Control'. Touted to be "Strongest Ever". Over coming few days, I will be testing the strength of the bond I made this morning, with a number of tests of flexability, resistance to water and to heat.

Would you believe that the parts I have painted thus far have used 9 litres of top coat? At $67.00 for 4Lt tin, I don't begrudge using it either.
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Ford CMP, 115" WB,1942 (Under Restoration...still)
Medium sized, half fake, artillery piece project. (The 1/4 Pounder)
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  #8  
Old 21-06-12, 15:10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Private_collector View Post
P.S: I hope you have a better hair-cut these days . You looked like the proverbial '5th Beetle'.
How about this one Tony? The 5th Masters Apprentice....?
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  #9  
Old 21-06-12, 15:28
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occasionally I used hair product ("HD90" I think it was called)
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  #10  
Old 21-06-12, 15:43
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Here I seem to be trying the feral look.

Of course, nowadays I just wish I had some hair!
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  #11  
Old 22-06-12, 10:25
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Tony Baker
 
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Default Rubber Glues

After playing around with the jointed piece of rubber, I think the Loctite supa glue will do just fine. I have been flexing the join off & on all day, and it has held together very well. Not a sign of failure along any part of the glued edges. I would never have thought this kind of glue would be as effective as this. I didn't even prep the surfaces to be glued before I stuck em together.

When it comes time to glue the real thing, I will rough up both surfaces and clean with alcohol just prior to doing the surgery.
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Ford CMP, 115" WB,1942 (Under Restoration...still)
Medium sized, half fake, artillery piece project. (The 1/4 Pounder)
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  #12  
Old 22-06-12, 10:53
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Default Hd90

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tony Wheeler View Post
occasionally I used hair product ("HD90" I think it was called)
You used to get a discount on that at Shell didn't you?
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42 FGT No8 (Aust) remains
42 FGT No9 (Aust)
42 F15
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  #13  
Old 24-06-12, 00:54
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Default Poor weather again

At present, it is looking very unlikely that I will get any outdoors work done today. Light drizzle combined with low temperatures will bring any painting to a halt, I fear.
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Ford CMP, 115" WB,1942 (Under Restoration...still)
Medium sized, half fake, artillery piece project. (The 1/4 Pounder)
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