Ford Blitz Restoration/Rebuild

Private_collector · #1 20-06-12, 10:58

Yeah, thats the sort of thing I would like to be using.

And I remember those vulcanising patches for tyre tubes, that you put into a clamp, then set it alight. The heat would weld the patch to the tube. What ever happened to those? Perhaps in these enlightened times, they are no longer available, in case someone got burnt fingers but would insist on blaming the manufacturer rather than accept responsibility for their actions!

I fear there may actually be LESS better glues today, because of potential risk of misuse etc.

P.S: I hope you have a better hair-cut these days

. You looked like the proverbial '5th Beetle'.

Private_collector · #2 20-06-12, 11:39

Ford Tie Rod Ends x2.jpg
Do these look like Ford CMP tie rod ends???

Cameron Reed · #3 20-06-12, 14:31

An option would be loctite I think it is 420 very handy and strong, most bearing places should have some. It is used to make oddball o-rings from round or square cord, I have used many times and have never had any failures someone at the bearing shop should be able to clarify the product, if you keep it in the fridge it helps to keep for a good time.
enjoying the ride so far keep up the good work

Keith Webb · #4 20-06-12, 23:12

Quote:

Originally Posted by Private_collector

Attachment 50024
Do these look like Ford CMP tie rod ends???

No, the CMP tie rod ends are threaded over the tie rod, not into it.

Private_collector · #5 21-06-12, 10:54

Oh what a bastard! I thought I was onto two of these really cheap.

On a different note, I have bought several types of glues to test for jointing the corners of outer window frame rubber seal. The best found so far is Loctite Super Glue 'Control'. Touted to be "Strongest Ever". Over coming few days, I will be testing the strength of the bond I made this morning, with a number of tests of flexability, resistance to water and to heat.

Would you believe that the parts I have painted thus far have used 9 litres of top coat? At $67.00 for 4Lt tin, I don't begrudge using it either.

Tony Wheeler · #6 21-06-12, 15:10

Quote:

Originally Posted by Private_collector

P.S: I hope you have a better hair-cut these days

. You looked like the proverbial '5th Beetle'.

How about this one Tony? The 5th Masters Apprentice....?

Tony Wheeler · #7 21-06-12, 15:28

occasionally I used hair product ("HD90" I think it was called)

Tony Wheeler · #8 21-06-12, 15:43

Here I seem to be trying the feral look.

Of course, nowadays I just wish I had some hair!

Private_collector · #9 22-06-12, 10:25

After playing around with the jointed piece of rubber, I think the Loctite supa glue will do just fine. I have been flexing the join off & on all day, and it has held together very well. Not a sign of failure along any part of the glued edges. I would never have thought this kind of glue would be as effective as this. I didn't even prep the surfaces to be glued before I stuck em together.

When it comes time to glue the real thing, I will rough up both surfaces and clean with alcohol just prior to doing the surgery.

Keith Webb · #10 22-06-12, 10:53

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tony Wheeler

occasionally I used hair product ("HD90" I think it was called)

You used to get a discount on that at Shell didn't you?

Private_collector · #11 24-06-12, 00:54

At present, it is looking very unlikely that I will get any outdoors work done today. Light drizzle combined with low temperatures will bring any painting to a halt, I fear.

cliff · #12 24-06-12, 03:36

Quote:

Originally Posted by Private_collector

At present, it is looking very unlikely that I will get any outdoors work done today. Light drizzle combined with low temperatures will bring any painting to a halt, I fear.

Yes them darned Mexicans sending their Melbourne Weather up here like this!!!!!!!!

Private_collector · #13 24-06-12, 11:01

The rain didn't stop all day, but I really wanted to get the windscreen frame painted, so I can insert the glass during the week. So, I put the cars out for a 'natural' wash, and set-up work under the carport.
Window frame - passenger painted 1.jpg Window frame - passenger painted 2.jpg
I was worried that the paint may 'blush' in the low temperatures, so each coat of paint was quickly followed with a few minutes of exposure to heat lamp (well it's a floodlight, but it's bloody hot up close).
Window glass - passenger 1.jpg Window glass - passenger 2.jpg
The windscreen rubber took far longer to make than I had planned on. Nothing new there. The rubber seal was slightly too thick for the window channel it will go into, so once attached to the screen, I had to pare it down quite a bit. This involved some hand sanding to taper the side so it would 'seat' in the frame. I followed this up with some additional paring with a hobby knife, where high spots remained.
Window glass - shavings.jpg
It's obvious from this photo that the trimming of screen rubber was quite labor intensive. Pity I couldn't just hit it with an orbital sander.

I used 40grit on a broad file instead. There is still no guarantee that I have got the job done to extent required. If not good enough, it will all have to come off and be started again from scratch, with a fresh piece of rubber. The thing that worries me is the effects that corrosion has had on the width of window channel. Some internal rusting must have occured, and the track is slightly thinner inside diameter in places. This could snag the screen as it's lowered into the main part of the frame.

If I had the luxury of painting yesterday, the screen would be in now.

Got the correct size rubber vacuum tubing yesterday, in town. Now I need to find photos that show where the tubing runs to, and try to find a 'T' piece connector. Ebay again, I think