My Blitz's

[Phil Waterman]

Hi Bob

Thanks for reminding me who had them here is the link to Peters web site

http://www.debellajeepparts.com/index.htm

http://www.debellajeepparts.com/CCKW2.htm page with kits



Cheers Phil

[Bob Carriere]

Track down some wood turners....... they would know of suppliers that sells very thick crazy glue which they use to strengthen wood fibers in partly decayed wood ........ the also use a very thin formula to fasten the bark on edge of bowls........ may seem crazy but it is very artsy fartsy. I would be tempted to let some crazy glue seep in into every finger joint.

In Canada Lee Valley is the major suppliers...... the crazy glue will turn a punky piece of wood into hard plastic..... needs to be sanded down with 400+ grit for the green OD to stick properly.

Bob

Former wood turner now spins yarns !!!!!

[Bob Carriere]

Phil

Peter also has the rubbing block that fits on the outside of the steering shaft tube.... held inplace by two screws......rubbing block contact that brass ring on the LH side of the picture.

Bob

[Phil Waterman]

Hi Bob

What I really would be interested in seeing is a video of how the wood steering wheels were actually made. Some CMPs seem to be made from 4 sections while some seem to have 2 sections, my HUP has only 2 sections.

I would suspect that it is a combination of steam bending and some kind of machine duplicator system like used making rifle stocks.

The wood penetrating stuff works wonders in some applications, I used polyurethane sealer on all the wood frame blocks and spacers on the HUP overhaul. Basically submerged all the wood parts and let them sit submerged for about 12 hours.

Thanks for the reminder on the source for the horn contacter down on the column. One of the common problem I have seen with these units is the terminal end gets loose from the shaft which can some times be fixed with a solder.

Cheers Phil

[Phil Waterman]

Hi Scott

Good job, we can all now add the M35 fuel gauge sender to our flea market parts hunt list as one of those spare parts to grab when we see it.

Cheers Phil

[Mike K]

Originally Posted by Scott Hamilton

There are so many types of clear vanish / clear coats available, what type would be the most suitable to use to withstand moisture?

.

Shellac might be worth a try . You can buy the flakes at mitre 10 , you mix them with metho . I know that guitar restorers use it to give a great finish , it may be too shiny on your CMP steering wheel Mike

[Jeff Gordon]

$600 holy smokes!!
Look around for a better one and polish it up.
Acetone is good for smoothing over cracks and dings.
You can even use it to melt down a piece of plastic off a stuffed wheel to fill large cracks.
Practice on a old one.
Cheers
Jeff

[Alex Blair (RIP)]

Originally Posted by Scott Hamilton

Still in the process of sanding the surface of the wooden steering wheel and things are progressing. The integrity and condition of the wood after a light sanding shows that they knew how to make things last in the old days. It's surprising that it has lasted in such a good condition for the best part of 70 years. As you can see improvisation for a work stand was used to allow the best positioning for sanding.

I am not sure what type of timber was used but it has a fairly tight grain and a beautiful colour when sanded. Once it is given a final clear coat it should look great.

There are so many types of clear vanish / clear coats available, what type would be the most suitable to use to withstand moisture?

I have sent my gauge cluster out of my C60 to Bob Moseley to be restored and am looking forward to seeing the finished item.

I am sending my other steering wheel to be repaired as there are a number of cracks and deterioration of the plastic. I am sending it to 'Pearlcraft' - http://www.pearlcraft.com.au/welcome.htm , who has a high reputation for restoring all types of plastic / bakelite steering wheels. Although not cheap @ $600 for complete repair the resulting quality is second to none and you only hopefully have to do it once.

Scott..
Use spar varnish..
It is a different varnish for outdoor applications. Any wood stored outside is going to be exposed to a wide range of temperatures and weather, as well as a good dose of damaging UV rays. These elements serve to break down the finish over time. Furthermore, changes in humidity cause the wood to expand and contract, and a standard indoor finish would simply crack and deteriorate under these conditions. Spar varnishes are typically designed to not only protect the wood, but also give it the flexibility and UV protection it needs to last for years. And the name “spar varnish” comes from the boating world, where the long wooden poles that support the sails are know as spars. So a spar varnish needs to be one that can withstand the rigorous conditions of seafaring life.

[Private_collector]

Scott,

I really enjoyed Canungra, but I would happily forgoe (? spelling) the pleasure to take delivery of that vehicle too

Cooooooool!

Wanna swap

[Jeff Gordon]

Hi Scott, that half track looks familiar!
Great stuff!
Shame you were not at Canungra there was an awesome DiamontT White Half track there.
Cheers
Jeff