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#1
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Mike, back on the first page of your post you had some great pictures of rebuilding your water pump. You replaced the original seals with a modern mechanical seal. I'm just wondering how it all turned out once it had been in use?
Is this the type of seal you used? https://www.grainger.com/product/PAC...aft-Seal-1R318 Thanks.
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Jordan Baker RHLI Museum, Otter LRC C15A-Wire3, 1944 Willys MB, 1942 10cwt Canadian trailer |
#2
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I have been running the engine regularly, mainly in order to keep it all from gunking up, the modern fuel is crap and it clogs evreything up if you leave it . The water pump mod has been great , no leaks in over 2 years. Yes those mechanical seals are easy to buy. I used the 5/8" one from memory.
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1940 cab 11 C8 1940 Morris-Commercial PU 1941 Morris-Commercial CS8 1940 Chev. 15cwt GS Van ( Aust.) 1942-45 Jeep salad Last edited by Mike K; 19-01-18 at 12:47. |
#3
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I picked up a couple of the 5/8" mechanical seals. Is the ceramic part supposed to be a loose fit on the shaft? I got 5/8" but it seems loose to me. What did you make the adapter out of to fit the ceramic part into the impeller?
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Jordan Baker RHLI Museum, Otter LRC C15A-Wire3, 1944 Willys MB, 1942 10cwt Canadian trailer |
#4
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It was a while ago. I think I machined up a sleeve out of stainless steel for the ceramic half to have a snug fit into the impeller . The ceramic half will stay put in the impeller ( not spin ) because it is held in place under tension from the spring and the neoprene surround sleeve will help it to grip . Yes the ceramic ring is a loose fit on the shaft . Look at my post with the pics.
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1940 cab 11 C8 1940 Morris-Commercial PU 1941 Morris-Commercial CS8 1940 Chev. 15cwt GS Van ( Aust.) 1942-45 Jeep salad |
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