How to restor Gauges?

[Bob Moseley (RIP)]

Hi Ian - all good advice. Until I can get my hands on one of these "can openers" a small screwdriver will suffice. Fortunately the "steel ring" as you describe it, I call it a bezel, is thin gauge metal and is easily bent. Just work with the screwdriver around the bezel where it contacts onto the housing and pry the metal away in small increments. Eventually that area will be straight enough to remove the bezel and glass. To replace simply use pliers to bent the metal back around the instrument.
Bob

[NORTH-SHORE(CANADA)]

Hi Bob,
That what i use a small screwdriver and it work well but now how to remouve the arrow

[Bob Moseley (RIP)]

Hi Eric - just be careful and don't exert too much pressure on anything. To remove the needles (arrows) I grasp the needle shaft with a pair of pointed nosed pliers and then twist the needle backwards and forwards until it comes off the shaft. This is very delicate and I have twisted of several shafts as the needle was frozen onto it. When replacing, again grasp the shaft with the pliers, position the needle onto the shaft and gently tap it back on. You need to hold the shaft as the tapping may damage the shaft seat. I have replicated the speedometer face through another decal so that is available. Looking at your bravery has inspired me to re-visit the gauges.

Bob

[sth65pac]

Bob & everyonne else,

You can also make up a 'needle fork'. Get a conventional fork cut the two outer tynes off, and bend the two inner tynes very close together, allowing a small slot of about 1-2mm to exist between the two tynes.

Use a cheap, pressed sheet, flat tyned fork, is the best bet as it provides the most pressure on the inside of the needle on the shaft. Not Granny's heirloom silver forks with the rounded points.

Make these tynes so close, that you can only slide them around a shaft, then the circular part of the needle (mounting bit where the shaft goes through) can be used as a purchase point behind the needle.

When removing the needle, slide the fork behind the needle rest the tynes against the circular part in the centre, and pull vertically. It will save you twisting shafts..

Ian.

[Bob Moseley (RIP)]

Hi Ian - Ada is out today so I'll hunt around for a fork. Re. pliers usage, I only use them to grasp the shaft, usually between the face plate mounting bracket and the magnetic drive. This way there is no pressure exerted on the needle shaft drive train and the needle callibration spring.

Bob

[Tony Smith]

Originally Posted by sth65pac

Use a cheap, pressed sheet, flat tyned fork, is the best bet as it provides the most pressure on the inside of the needle on the shaft. Not Granny's heirloom silver forks with the rounded points.

I wish you'd warned me earlier! I've gone and buggered Nan's best cutlery!

[Bob Moseley (RIP)]

Hi all - I am having trouble getting the prongs close enough together.

Bob

[Keith Webb]

Originally Posted by Bob Moseley

Hi all - I am having trouble getting the prongs close enough together.

Bob

Bob, isn't that your best crow-lance?

[NORTH-SHORE(CANADA)]

Originally Posted by Bob Moseley

Hi all - I am having trouble getting the prongs close enough together.

Bob

Hi Bob,
What kind of guages you restoring with that one

[Tony Smith]

South Australia (and Vic) have 5'3" Broad Gauge.