Richie's Mk1 Restoration

Lynn Eades · #1 14-06-09, 11:51

Drill; a pilot hole in the centre of the rivet, then drill it out to near the rivet dia. drill about 2/3rds through, then put a punch in the hole, and hit it.
If you hit it hard enough the rivet will break in the middle. Use all the safety gear etc., and try not to damage your self.
The centre of the rivet hole is not necessarily concentric with the head, so dont start with too big a drill, but the more meat you cut out, the easier it is to break the rivet.
I have not used the arc/air gouger to blow out rivets, but it is an option , if available.
There will be other ideas.

shaun · #2 14-06-09, 13:55

Hi Richie,
The nuts were probably damaged by a fitter in the field.

as for removing the rivets, try gas cutting gear. the rivet is softer than the armour so you cane blow it away very cleanly. cut the head off the punch the rest out.
with regards to the hull numbers never assume anything. lots of people know a lot about carriers - but not everything ! keep an open mind !

TTFN
Shaun

RichardT10829 · #3 14-06-09, 18:06

sure will. i have a photo in black and white of you giving me a quick lesson in your wagon, i have put it on the wall in the garage to keep me inspired. my imagination was running wild when i saw the nuts, "Its 1942/43 Tunisia or perhaps Qum, as you say a field mechanic may have had to quickly improvise......... dead easy, Reme lad is busy servicing the carrier, a couple of the RSF lads come over for a chit chat, "fancy coming into town tonight with the lads if we get free passout ????" the spanner is on the ground, sand gets kicked over it and its lost Improvise Adapt Overcome

and iam not saying REME lads are heathens.... far from it...... but you should see the state of the nut hahahaha. great stuff iam loving every minute i get to work on her.

RichardT10829 · #4 14-06-09, 22:27

Right managed to get the rivets out, i used a wafer thin cutting disc and took the heads off the rivets from the inside, they punched straight out no problems, and through patience and a steady hand i might add

there is no marks left behind from the grinder. i had tried for over an hour with a new drill set but the rivets although mild steel were killing the drill bits off in minutes despite slow speed drilling and with oil.

whilst working on the tub i noticed loads of holes, wondering what they were all for ?
thought i would post them up see what you think.

anyway here is the brake shoes and gubbins for the gunners side.

and the holes..... there are a load on the gunners side, but as all my tools were there i will get photos soon.

drivers cockpit

drivers side rear part of tub (looking from front backover)

drivers side rear part of tub (looking from the rear forwards)

and finally the rear drivers side track guard sits over the sprocket

i know holes could be drilled for any number of reasons and by anyone, just trying to figure what if anything she has been fitted with. i know she has had the radio as the rear armour plate i have left has the holes and evidence of the battery box .

just plodding on bit by bit, will get the axel clear and engine out this week, glacis plate removed and hopefully center bulkhead or whats left of it out this week.

kevin powles · #5 14-06-09, 23:43

hi rich, that first pic, holes for drivers side ammo bin, holds down the three straps on the bottom of the bin. Last pic are the holes for the ration box tray, you have the remains in the bottom right corner of the pic of the crank extension holder, best to take out those brake shoes wearing a face mask and bag them up, hoover out the drum housing of all lost dust and pressure wash the rest, you can refit the asbestos shoes later.

I have attached some pics of what is fitted to the holes.

kevin.

Lynn Eades · #6 15-06-09, 08:46

If you look up from the uderside,you will find all the holes are countersunk.
If you put bolt heads or nuts under there, the track will wipe them off.
Id say that all those holes are original.

RichardT10829 · #7 15-06-09, 09:41

awesome. cheers for the replies guys ! it is like a pandora's box this thing so many little things you miss on a particular day only to discover later. Gantry should be ready this week to drop the tub onto (it has strong castor type wheels with breaks) once the axel is clear and the lump out i will be able to push it in and out the garage easier, i can pretty much push it now, even with all the weight in.

bought some boxes and plastic bags with labels, all to be designated. got some etch primer coming and some high build red oxide primer, when the tub is away i will pick a box of components at a time to clean up and prime, then place back into the bags idea being that they are "new" parts ready to go back on out of the bags.