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#1
08-06-10, 17:01
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Clive, y'know if the block is cracked (as may well be the case), it can be magnafluxed - I did it with mine, which lasted over 30,000 miles of daily travel in the following three years. If it's just gone too far oversize, then it can be bored and have new sleeves inserted. Neither option is that expensive, and the F-head engine is strong as an ox otherwise. Geoff
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SUNRAY SENDS AND ENDS :remember :support 
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#2
08-06-10, 20:04
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Geoff
Magnaflux is a form of crack detector. Methods to repair such cracks are welding (only for the most experienced on a cast block), brazing, stitching, and if it's only in the water jacket, various forms of epoxy can be used. That said, reliability wise you are better off finding another block to work with. F head blocks are not that rare, and if you are going to sink the loot into machining, it might as well be on a good block. All said and done, if one can find a good engine for $500 or so, it will be far cheaper than a rebuild. As well, the Willys blocks were prone to wearing out. Most of the cam bushings were actually the block itself, so if these are worn, then even a complete rebuild will not restore all the oil pressure.
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#3
08-06-10, 20:39
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This is why Clive needs an engine.......
-Main bearing set (@ 30 thou under)
-cam bearing -camshaft and lifters -timing gear set -4 x intake valves -4 x intake guides -4 x intake valve springs -overhaul gasket set -4 x pistons (@ 60 thou over -full set of rings (@ 60 thou over) -4 x rod bearings (30 thou under) -4 x exhaust valves -4 x exhaust guides -4 x exhaust valve springs -water pump (new or rebuilt) Labour for doing this work would be $1474 + tax. This doesn't include any machining that needs to be done etc. About all that's left is the carb, head, dist and block. Maybe Geoff can fix it up for you Clive? Can you have him deliver it t me in 2 weeks as well? Don
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Don Dingwall 'Strange women lying in ponds distributing swords is no basis for a system of government.'
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#4
08-06-10, 21:15
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 My old 1953 F-head wasn't nearly that bad, and it was already 30 years old when I got it (and I thought it was buggered then!). I guess time has a way of distorting perspective... 
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SUNRAY SENDS AND ENDS :remember :support
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#5
08-06-10, 21:27
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Rebuilds are $2000.
Had them done. My MB rebuild was $2000. Not a lot when the jeep is done, and your mind rests easy.
Rebuild the fuel pump and carb while you are at it. Not a big job. And replace all fuel and brake lines, My babbitted Chev engine was $2600 for the rebuild and the "rebuilder" called back to advise it was babbitted and raised it to that price. Peter S
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#6
08-06-10, 21:56
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Hop 'er up..
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Stick a blown 350 Chevy in it, Don..Clive wouldn't know the friggin' difference anyway..until he stepped on it..Tell him .."It's the new rings..man.."..lots of power now.. Clive would buy that.. As long as you leave it so it leaks a little oil on his driveway,he'll like it.. He is used to driving those old Triumphs.. You and Little Don heading out to BBB..??    
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Alex Blair :remember :support :drunk:
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#7
09-06-10, 01:25
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This post is too close to home, I just bought a M38A1 (Ford) and the motor does not turn over. Will know in a couple of weeks if she turns. Does anyone have a good engine they would be will to sell. Also I have a parts M38 (1970) with a complete engine condition unknown. If I can find a rebuild kit I have a good engine rebuild shop that is reasonable and would like to rebuild the original engine. Gilles
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#8
09-06-10, 04:56
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M38A1 engine woes
Well, I might as well join the parade. 70-08876 has low compression and is a sonuvagun to start. It runs when going, but that is the tough part. The compression is low and very low.
My simple knowledge of engines says: sleeve the cylinders; change the cam to keep the valves closed longer; taller pistons; or mill the head or block to reduce the cylinder volume. No matter what, as Rob describes there are only so many modern wear elements on these engines. And we are stuck. Now, I have a total of three blocks including the runner in the Jeep, a supposedly unused from rebuild engine and a third block with the cam and bottom end off. This third one is available for experiments if someone has good ideas.
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Terry Warner - 74-????? M151A2 - 70-08876 M38A1 - 53-71233 M100CDN trailer Beware! The Green Disease walks among us!
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#9
09-06-10, 05:15
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So, is one available for sale to a good home? Clive
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Those who live by the sword will be shot by those of us who have progressed. - M38A1, 67-07800, ex LETE
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#10
09-06-10, 13:44
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Quote:
Low compression on these engines was both common and not that bad to fix. If the oil pressure was still good, I used to do cheapy overhauls in the old days to fix the problem of worn cylinders/rings for a flat $400. I would strip the crank and pistons from the engine, have the 4 cylinders bored over, and then re-assemble the engine with 4 new pistons and rings. Intake valves were never a problem, but occasionally there would be wear on the exhaust valve train which would also require attention. I always found the engines to give about 15 to 20 thousand good miles, followed by about 15K tired miles, then require rebuild. Very low by today's standards.
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