My Blitz's

Keith Webb · #1 31-07-11, 09:08

The paint on your transfer case looks like it's Deep Bronze Green indicating post-war use by the Army.

lynx42 · #2 06-08-11, 02:12

Whilst I haven't used the company for their wiring looms, I have purchased rubber window seals etc. from them.
I was restoring a 1923 Rolls-Royce in 2000 and was quoted, by another company, $450.00 just for the two vent window rubbers . Scott supplied the entire cars rubbers for $158.00. (Windscreen, vent windows, rear and side.) I didn't tell him at first that it was for a Rolls. I learnt that mistake quite quickly, but unlike the other company, it made no difference.
They were good to deal with.
Rick.

Mike K · #3 13-08-11, 07:32

I think the Chevs had a larger version of the Jeep style IG switch ....

US6 · #4 12-09-11, 06:23

Quote:

Originally Posted by Scott Hamilton

I have found a supplier in Australia who can supply complete wiring looms for Chev and Ford Blitz's. They can make a loom to suit either the cab 13 version or the 'monkey face' cab 12.

I have been advised that they use the original style wire (laquered, cotton braided wires) and then the harness itself is cotton braided as the original. Terminals are fitted and they number each of the wires and provide an instruction sheet to aid installation.

The harness is designed for 6 volt systems so use heavier gauge wire.

They can supply for different chassis lengths ie C15 - C60.

http://www.scottsoldautorubber.com.au/

Has anyone used this particular supplier for their wiring harness?

These are made by Vintage Wiring Harnesses in Melbourne. I have dealt with them directly and can vouch for their quality and accuracy.

hrpearce · #5 13-09-11, 11:08

http://www.mapleleafup.net/forums/sh...ht=spedo+cable I had mine made at 100" just to be safe.

aj.lec · #6 18-09-11, 03:58

It is my understanding that all Chev blitz motors are based on the 1940 model .So regardless of year model all have he 1940 base motor with the single hole water pump and domed pistons
Civilian models changed in 1941

Bob Moseley (RIP) · #7 18-09-11, 08:09

Hi Scott - I am a bit of a purist and am glad you are sticking with 6v. I have heard so many reasons why people has resorted to 12v. None of them wash with me. 6v was more than adequate in those days and as long as you use heavy cabling and ensure good earths, you should have no problems. I think 12v is a lazy option.

Bob

Mike K · #8 18-09-11, 12:55

Scott

If you look at the engine block , you will see a code cast on the dissy side towards the starter . It's the casting date of the block . I've forgotten how to decode it but .... the letters = month . A = January etc.

The code is also found on the gearbox housing and gearbox lid .

this is good to read http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chevrol...aight-6_engine

Keith Webb · #9 23-09-11, 05:14

Quote:

Originally Posted by Scott Hamilton

I have found out some details of my vehicles, altough there are still some historical gaps that will need to be filled.

C15A - Built in Brisbane. Was disposed of in Qld and was apparently sold to General Motors Holden @ 1946? No specific information of what rear body was fitted.

C60 - Built in Sydney. Was disposed from 1 Base Ordnance Depot in NSW in 1964. No specific information on what rear body was fitted.

Who would I need to get in contact with to find more details?

If the AWM had that degree of detail they would also have the body type. You should ask for more info.