Ford Blitz Restoration/Rebuild

Keith Webb · #1 21-09-12, 01:37

I have some photographs of how it's routed taken before removing an original loom, not showing everything but how it runs along the chassis rail from the solenoid. I also have some NOS looms including the main one which goes from the starter solenoid to the front shell incorporating the horn wiring, also some original tail light wiring and switch wiring.
The standard wiring provides a cut out but not the good protection a modern set up should give.
There are a couple of suppliers who can make new looms for you and incorporate things like turn signals.
I had a vintage wiring specialist company make and install a loom for Swiss Chris' F15 which seemed to be OK until it got to Switzerland where it was found to have not been properly secured around the dipswitch allowing the clutch pedal to wear through and cause a meltdown. Their circuit breaker also failed to work resulting in a smouldering loom.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Private_collector

Gentlemen,

Can anyone help me out with a diagram of how the wiring harness is routed on a Ford F60, please?

I'm about to look into having a new loom made or purchased. I have the wiring diagram in several manuals & books, but haven't found any information that will show where the wiring actually passes along.

Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Private_collector · #2 21-09-12, 04:17

Cheers Keith!

I would be very interested to see those photos.

I am communicating with a fellow who can make from the wiring diagram, provided I can give lengths etc.

Also considering Scotts Old Auto Rubber, at Oakleigh! Vic.
They have a listing on their website for: FD422/3. 1942, V8 F60S* MIL 4WD BLITZ/PUDDLE JUMPER ( CANADA ) $650.00AUD That's per GST too.

Another source is Vinwire, they have one for $650, and that does include GST.

Those ones would come ready made off the shelf, and should be ready to go. Do you know anyone who may have bought from these people? If so, were they satisfied?

Keith Webb · #3 21-09-12, 08:37

Not much of a shot but it does show the junction of the main loom at the solenoid where it joins the tail and fuel sender loom.

And a little forward of that:

Keith Webb · #4 21-09-12, 09:05

Here's the solenoid to starter cable, new old stock:

The light switches loom

And the main loom which starts at the solenoid and carries the input power to another loom (which I don't have) which then goes to the voltage cut out and from there to the dash and onto the lights and other places.

Private_collector · #5 21-09-12, 11:07

Cheers Keith. I have saved those 2 images.

It all looks very confusing to me. Now leaning towards purchasing one pre-made. That will come with all ends labelled, to aid installation.

Got my MacsAuto parts today. The battery hold down is a perfect fit!
Rather more flimsy than I had expected, at least compared to the one I made. Suppose thats the way it is meant to be.
MacsAuto parts order received 21st Sept 2012.jpg
Had also ordered some of the smaller brake hardware, such as wheel cylinder fluid line bolts, brass gaskets, brass end blocks (at wheel cylinder), line connectors, flexible hose end clips, and a range of numerous other parts. I had taken a punt & ordered the brake pedal return spring(partly shown in one of your photos earlier today), though I wasn't 100% convinced it was the correct choice. Lucky for me it is correct for the job. Sure looks much different to the rooted old one I took off the truck. It had virtually doubled in length over the years. New one is a good strong spring, so i'm expecting a world of trouble getting it on!
MacsAuto Part No. is 01T-2472, BRAKE PEDAL RETRACT SPRING /42-52. Also has numbering 30344F on the packet. In checking the parts manuals I have, this is the correct original part number as well.

Private_collector · #6 23-09-12, 11:55

Sector shaft 1.jpg Sector shaft 3.jpg Worm gear.jpg
Pulled apart the other steering box today, and found both the sector shaft and worm gear are almost perfect and certainly worthy of use.
Steering box case primed.jpg
Box case also cleaned thoroughly and primed. Thats as far as I can go with it until I locate a new seal for sector shaft. Betwen the two boxes I have now disassembled, there are two very good bearings that I can use (both the worm gear shaft bearings are identical).
Chassis stand.jpg
To top the weekend off, I have done one of the stands the chassis will be sitting on while I re-install some of the sub assemblies. It would be nice to put this stand to use some time in the near future. I believe next week the work willl start on chassis blasting & repairs. The stand has been designed to raise & lower using a bottle jack and the 4 locking pins. There's around $100 worth of materials used. Other one will be more costly, I ran out of MIG wire today.

Keith Webb · #7 23-09-12, 12:10

You're fortunate to have such a good sector shaft, Tony. Treat it with great care. This was one of the very under-engineered parts of Ford CMPs up till around 1944, no wonder they redesigned it. Does anyone have an exact date when the '400' type steering box and 6" steering ends were introduced in production?

Jacques Reed · #8 24-09-12, 06:24

Quote:

Thats as far as I can go with it until I locate a new seal for sector shaft. Betwen the two boxes I have now disassembled, there are two very good bearings that I can use (both the worm gear shaft bearings are identical).

Hi Tony,

Hope this is not a "how to suck eggs type reply" and my apology if it is but I have found over the years that many seals for CMP's are still available as newly manufactured items at local bearing and seal businesses. I was obsessed in the early days with original items until I got a few pitted NOS bearings and hardened seals. My Chief Engineer when I was at sea put me in the picture with bearings and seals and suggested most would still be off the shelf items. Best advice he ever gave me.
It sure beats running all over the country for NOS items that are as as old and hard as dinosaur droppings.
I have replaced most trans, diff, xfer case, and even my sector shaft seal from items obtained at CBC and other retailers. Likewise diff, trans, and wheel bearings. Now I take a sample in and more often than not it can be matched. Ditto NOS versus new U-Joints. All mine are Hardy Spicer of recent manufacture.
Hope this might also help those new to vehicle restoration and save hours of needless searching.

Brgds,

T Creighton · #9 24-09-12, 07:49

Quote:

Box case also cleaned thoroughly and primed. Thats as far as I can go with it until I locate a new seal for sector shaft. Betwen the two boxes I have now disassembled, there are two very good bearings that I can use (both the worm gear shaft bearings are identical).

Hi Tony, I guess you have noticed that the bottom cup is a lot heavier than the top one. My bearing supplier sourced some new ones from Melbourne. Also have a good feel of the rotation of the sector shaft roller. The needle bearings inside have a habit of collapsing. Good luck. Your thread is really interesting.
Regards Terry.