My Blitz's

[Alex Blair (RIP)]

Originally Posted by Scott Hamilton

Still in the process of sanding the surface of the wooden steering wheel and things are progressing. The integrity and condition of the wood after a light sanding shows that they knew how to make things last in the old days. It's surprising that it has lasted in such a good condition for the best part of 70 years. As you can see improvisation for a work stand was used to allow the best positioning for sanding.

I am not sure what type of timber was used but it has a fairly tight grain and a beautiful colour when sanded. Once it is given a final clear coat it should look great.

There are so many types of clear vanish / clear coats available, what type would be the most suitable to use to withstand moisture?

I have sent my gauge cluster out of my C60 to Bob Moseley to be restored and am looking forward to seeing the finished item.

I am sending my other steering wheel to be repaired as there are a number of cracks and deterioration of the plastic. I am sending it to 'Pearlcraft' - http://www.pearlcraft.com.au/welcome.htm , who has a high reputation for restoring all types of plastic / bakelite steering wheels. Although not cheap @ $600 for complete repair the resulting quality is second to none and you only hopefully have to do it once.

Scott..
Use spar varnish..
It is a different varnish for outdoor applications. Any wood stored outside is going to be exposed to a wide range of temperatures and weather, as well as a good dose of damaging UV rays. These elements serve to break down the finish over time. Furthermore, changes in humidity cause the wood to expand and contract, and a standard indoor finish would simply crack and deteriorate under these conditions. Spar varnishes are typically designed to not only protect the wood, but also give it the flexibility and UV protection it needs to last for years. And the name “spar varnish” comes from the boating world, where the long wooden poles that support the sails are know as spars. So a spar varnish needs to be one that can withstand the rigorous conditions of seafaring life.

[Private_collector]

Scott,

I really enjoyed Canungra, but I would happily forgoe (? spelling) the pleasure to take delivery of that vehicle too

Cooooooool!

Wanna swap

[Jeff Gordon]

Hi Scott, that half track looks familiar!
Great stuff!
Shame you were not at Canungra there was an awesome DiamontT White Half track there.
Cheers
Jeff

[Ryan]

Yeah, never set time limits as you will only dissapoint yourself. Something always comes up. All part of the struggle, I mean adventure.

[Private_collector]

[Mike Cecil]

Scott,

Before you put ANYTHING on that lovely concrete, consider waiting till its cured then proof coat it with a penetrating concrete sealant. I used liquid Perspex in a previous shed and it worked a treat. Concrete dust was nil, sweeping up and removing oil drops was easy. Gave it two coats to leave a slick slightly gloss finish, so had to take a little care if it got wet, but ended in a much tidier and dust-free shed/work environment.

The shed after that was coated with a so-called concrete paint by the building contractor: it was rubbish, and stripped off just running wheels across it, but too late to give the floor a coat of something better, so I had to live with it.

The most recent shed got a coat of a satin finish water repelling sealant, and that works fine, too.

Mike C

[David Dunlop]

How many sheds does it take to make a village?


David