Ford Blitz Restoration/Rebuild

[Private_collector]

Painted the major parts of the front end this morning.

Once sufficiently dried, I moved them into the workshop, and found a way to store them without damaging any paint. Sliding each steering end & axle shaft into their respective axle case was the best I could do.
Axle halves painted 1.jpg Steering end painted 1.jpg Driver side parts drying.jpg Passenger side parts stored.jpg
Work came to an abrupt end when I was sliding the passenger side axle shaft into it's case when it caught on an internal rivet head, and came off the rivet just as my hand was trying to get a better grip. The bloody thing dropped about 8" onto my hand which was flat on the top of the axle case, squashing it and keeping me there for about 30 seconds until I could lift it a little to get the hand out. Oh my goodness, I exclaimed! All fingers move OK. Painful and swollen, but not broken. It'll be an interesting color by tomorrow, I would wager.
Worn hub seal line.jpg
How's this for a well worn groove! As mentioned earlier, the new seals sit in a slightly different location, due to thinner profile. That will work out well.

[Private_collector]

The engine parts are rolling in now. I'm mainly ordering upper engine and valvetrain stuff. NOS valves and slightly o/s main bearing set should arrive this week. I'm bidding on a set of adjustable (new) tappets, so I don't have to stuff around grinding the bums off valve stems!
NOS Valve Guides.jpg NOS Valve Retainers.jpg New Valve Springs.jpg New Head Bolt Studs.jpg
The NOS valve guides cost me $3.50US each, from a place in New Jersey.

Also received a new set of Flathead exterior bolts, but forgot to photograph.

I will be re-sleeving any cylinders that would require oversize boring, to retain original displacement. Saves me buying o/s pistons.

[Richard Farrant]

hi Tony,
All looking good.

Hope your hand is alright, a hazard of the occupation, I can vouch for that

regards, Richard

[Phil Waterman]

Hi

Ah yes the common grove, isn't that we are all stuck in?

But yes almost every CMP front drive hub seems to have this. Yes you are correct one thing about the new seals is that they ride in a different area.

One of my trucks has two of the new seals in the seal seats so that it is doubly sealed, pact the seals with wheel grease before installing to be sure the outer seal had a little lubrication.

I've looked in to Speedysleeve for this area if the grove makes the wheel leak to much but so far none of mine have ever had wheel hub seal leak that would require it. If my memory is correct there is a Speedysleeve that would do the job.

If I was going to do a serious water fording I would actually be more concerned about water leaking in.

What ever you do don't forget the axle nut keeper. That will really put a grove in the hub.

Cheers Phil

[Private_collector]

Originally Posted by Richard Farrant

Hope your hand is alright, a hazard of the occupation, I can vouch for that

Hello Richard. No great harm done.

A slight injury like this, is a good reminder that it's best to call for assistance in heavy lifting.
In this case, not that heavy, but bloody ackward to move around in the manner I wanted.

[Private_collector]

Phil,

I don't believe either of the ends had a keeper on there when I removed originally.
You don't meen the thick washer do you? What does it look like?

[Phil Waterman]

Hi Tony

Not sure of how yours was put together but below is a picture of type mine has, the other version I've seen is a big castle nut with pin.

The first photo shows the bent tab keeper, 2nd shows the nut and pin, 3rd and 4th show how close I came to loosing a wheel after a keeper failed.

Cheers Phil

[Phil Waterman]

Hi All

Working alone, figuring out how to lift and position awkward and heavy parts, here is the rigging for the front hub.

Shown here is the entire hub end hanging from engine hoist bar of chain fall.

Cheers Phil

[Private_collector]

Phil,

Your photos almost sent me scurrying off to the workshop with a flashlight, because I couldn't remember seeing large castle nuts, and certainly didn't take any locking plates off. Then I checked through all the billions of photos I have taken, and saw the castle nut type is what I have.

I do like your method of installing the steering ends.
New U Bolts 1.jpg New U Bolts 2.jpg
I can do the same, because I bought new U bolts for the rear axle this afternoon. What has that got to do with easily installing the steering ends? Simple. Until I can permanantly attach the rear axle to springs, I won't trust the chassis not to fall, so my engine crane is attached to the pintle spring with a chain, just in case something slips. Once I get the U bolts painted and installed, then I can remove the engine crane, freeing it up to help reassemble front axle bits!