F60L Cab 12 truck

[Ganmain Tony]

Thought that might have been the answer...

Gotta pay the bills somehow. Hope to see you up our way soon.

[Ganmain Tony]

About the only photo I can find of the fuel line set up.... note copper line that I ran from the tank tap to the engine has since been replaced with injector grade rubber hose. Stopped vaporization that I encountered going up hills on hot days.

[Shane]

Great photo mate thanks a lot and for taking the time to post.

I was let down and have not put the motor in, hope to do this soon. However put the windscreen on today and now she is starting to look like a truck and i think im over 40% of the way there.

[Keith Webb]

It's starting to get it's personality back!

[Shane]

note copper line that I ran from the tank tap to the engine has since been replaced with injector grade rubber hose. Stopped vaporization that I encountered going up hills on hot days

Tony is this a common problem with the fuel line? Did you replace the copper lines from the tank to the fuel tap and then the fuel pump with the injector grade rubber hose?

[Ganmain Tony]

Originally Posted by Shane

Tony is this a common problem with the fuel line? Did you replace the copper lines from the tank to the fuel tap and then the fuel pump with the injector grade rubber hose?

Shane I cant speak for the blokes that drove them through the desert in WW2 but from personal experience thats what happened to me.

The original lines are steel but are covered in a fabric. They also have a couple of curls in them. Note at the top of this photo you can see the curl in the fuel line.
Admittedly this is a 2WD 13 Cab but i'm pretty sure it'd be the same in a 12 Cab...

So all the lines in mine are rubber from the tank to the tank tap to the pump to the carbie.

Also enables you to put a couple of in line fuel filters. Mine are on each chassis rail between the tanks and the tap.

[Shane]

Thanks Tony, still haven't made up my mind which way i will go but being able to put in more fuel filters sounds great. Have made the choice to turn her into a 12 volt rather than a 6 volt after talking to Colin Jones and lets face it he's been there and done it when it comes to flathead V8s and the positives out way the negative. Spent most of the today with Hugh Davis and my Dad putting the V8 back in, was easy work due to their help and the use of a forklift. In the last photo im missing the pin can anyone send me one so i can get on with the job it has a small hole at one end for a split pin to go through more than happy to pay just need asap. Thanks lads

[Phil Waterman]

Hi Shane

Try you local tractor supply or older tractor dealer. That's where I've found them in the past.

Cheers Phil

[Mike K]

Originally Posted by Shane

In the last photo im missing the pin can anyone send me one so i can get on with the job it has a small hole at one end for a split pin to go through more than happy to pay just need asap. Thanks lads

If you cannot buy a clevis pin for that , somebody with a lathe could make one in 5 minutes

Mike

[Keith Webb]

I have a few NOS ones in different sizes, will need to check...

[Shane]

Thanks Gentleman for you advice. I do have one of the biggest tractor dealers not 100 meters from where i work so will give them a go..but please have a look Keith if you dont mind. Also does anyone have the item number for the FORD badge to go on the dash of a cab 12 from Macs Auto? :salute

[Howard]

Shane,
I cannot find my parts book at the moment (Jo is away... I cannot find anything) but I think the part number is 91A-16606.
01A-16606-C is the correct size and shape, but has red edging.
Check those numbers in your parts book before ordering.
If I can find my book before hand I will let you know.
Cheers
H

[colin jones]

Hello everyone! I don't want to hijack Shane's thread here but I'm re skinning his doors for him and making some hinges as well so I thought this would be the best place to show how I made them.
The hinges are probably quite hard to find but not too bad to make if you've got the tools. I had 2 pieces of 30mm blocks and milled a hole through the centre giving me 2 half round dies. The pin is 1/4" so I welded the pin to some plate to use as the former in the press.

[colin jones]

I used the other part of the block to press down the rest of the hinge. I did all the pressings first then into the milling machine to cut the slots then a couple of bends, insert the pin, bit of a grind and that's it.

[colin jones]

De skinning the doors were quite easy with the flap disc in the grinder. I simply ground around the edge until I saw the lamination and the skin literally fell off Well almost. I drew around the door and just allowed the extra for folding over.

[colin jones]

I put the door blank in the folder and did only 90deg bends as anymore than that and you would lock you're self out. I also gave it about 1-2mm all around so it wasn't too tight. I clamped it to my table and just slowly went around and bent it over. You can't bend it all at once or you will distort the sheet so just follow along and bring it flat including the curves.

[colin jones]

And that's about it apart from fitting the hinges.

[Lynn Eades]

Mr Jones, You're a versatile bugger!

[Phil Waterman]

Hi Colin

Impressive, I have tried to figure out how to do that with out success. So your step by step is quit something.

The door hinges on Pat 11 & 12 seem to be a real weak point, I have always thought that they had to be a standard automotive door hinge, figured that they probably were a Model T hinge that Ford guys had a warehouse full of or that they had the tooling sitting around. I've looked through T parts but have never had a match.

Cheers phil

[Keith Webb]

Love watching someone making a job which for most of us would be either challenging or impossible look easy.

You are a true craftsman, Mr. Jones!

[Bob Carriere]

I have also search high and low for such hinges and like Phil came up empty.

Not having all the milling/press I think it can still be done albeit slowly.

The big hurdle is to get a machine shop to make me the suitable half circle die. I am sure I can duplicate the bending press with my 20 ton hydraulic press for such a short item.

I may cut the individual fingers with a metal band saw and finish slowly with a file.

On the door skins..... lucky I have only 2 doors otherwise I would have to deal with four skins ....... did you prebend the two top bends in the top section first then worked on the sides ....

How difficult was it doing the curved section.... it seems that it needs to be shrinked first when you do the first 90 degrees than stretched when you finally flatten that section down. Did you use any heat at all....?

Did you spot weld one side before doing the opposite side??

Thanks for the pictures.

Cheers

[aj.lec]

These look similar from Macs
Bit hard to say without comparing side by side


Model A Ford Front Door Hinge Set - Open Car - Roadster & Phaeton - 2 Hole Bottom Hinge - FORD





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Part #: 28-22549-1
Alt Part #: A35600AS
Price: $54.25 Set

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Fitment: 1928 thru 1930
See applications below for exact details.

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OR

Model A Ford Rear Door Hinge Set - Phaeton - 1928-29 Only - FORD





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Part #: 28-22643-1
Alt Part #: A36400AS
Price: $159.95 Set

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Fitment: 1928 thru 1929
See applications below for exact details.

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[Bob Carriere]

I was able to compare them at their facilities in Lockport NY and they are not the same...... at the very least you would need to reweld the hole and redrill.

At the time they also had a very pricy set without holes drilled made of solid brass at over $100 each..... which could have been drilled to fit but the price and the lesser strenght of the brass discouraged me from buying.

The cab11/12 hinges are definitely a weak link for these trucks.... they sagged and twisted but they were not designed to last 75 years!!!! All the examples I have are stretched out at the top hinge and twisted inwards at the bottom...... makes it hard to decide what shape they were originally.

In redoing the frame work of my doors I took the opportunity to brace the weak areas around the lock which means I have added slightly to the weight the hinges will carry.

So far I have not been able to find similar lock mechanism so derusting and rebuilding is in order. On some of my locks have metal added either welded or crudely brazed on the protruding latch mechanism to counter the widening of the door gap due to sagging of the rear wall leaving the door unlatched.

Door skins are my next project.

Cheers

[Howard]

Originally Posted by Keith Webb

Love watching someone making a job which for most of us would be either challenging or impossible look easy.
You are a true craftsman, Mr. Jones!

...and this is why I told Mr Jones that I hate him!

[colin jones]

Thankyou for you comments and now I know why I'm not on Howards Xmas card list
Bob, to answer your questions. To make the half circle die is very simple to make without a mill. I used two separate steel blocks about 2"x3"x1" put them together and drilled a hole at the centre where they touch. if you have a pedestal drill I would suggest to pilot drill a 1/4" hole first and then use the full size drill you need. The drill size you need is!
Pin thickness= 1/4" or 6mm or what ever you're using
Thickness of material x 2= about 14mm or 9/16
After it's drilled, pull them apart and you have 2 half circle forming dies.
Don't forget to centre punch the location before you drill the pilot hole.
Believe me bob it is that simple if your using mild steel. Don't forget you're not going into production so mild steel is fine. A general garage press is more than sufficient to bend these.
I never used any heat at all to bend any part of the doors. Cutting the individual fingers with a band saw, hacksaw, jigsaw, reciprocating saw is good if you get the required end result.
Door skins!!~
Four skins will just take you longer and probably more painfull
I used 1mm thick and just laid the door on top before I deskun it and traced around with sharp chalk. I used my 5" grinder with a very thin blade to cut the sheet including the big curve about 1/2" outside the perimeter. but I had to measure the top accurately and allow for the bend radius which is about the thickness or the sheet per bend. I pre drilled the 2 holes at the top for the window frames and then folded the 2 top bends.
If I never had a folder I would clamp 2 pieces of flatbar with the material in between and very slowly hammer over with a wide head hammer.
I used a few clamps close to where I hammer and move them frequently
I never used any heat at all and the curved section is just the same as the rest but just don't try to bend high angles all at once. On one door I did use the spot welder as that is what was done to that particular door. The other one is quite different so they were made by different suppliers.
I also use anything I have to use as bending dolly's like flat punches or pieces of round rod.
I hope this helps and you'll never learn unless you give it a turn.
On a finishing door note!
I also made the small pieces that fit and bolt to the top of the doors for the softskin windows.

[colin jones]

Yes I know they are not "period bolts" so shane can change them if he wants to.
Shane' if you're watching you can pick your doors up and bring the clevis with you and I'll make pin while you wait.
Colin.

[Shane]

Mate i am lost for words you truly are a genius Amazing that you are self taught and can produce such work im blown away Mr Jones. Cant wait to come over and see them how does Wednesday sound after you have dropped the kids off to school? Im a very happy man

Thankyou so much Colin

[David Dunlop]

Colin, you do fine work! We may have to call you "Sir Colin" from now on!

Good description of the door hinge failures over time. I have seen lots of Cab 13 doors here in Canada with the same problem and they have a much more robust design. Seems the driver side door shows more failure than the passenger door. I suspect decades of people using the door to pull themselves up into the cab and lower themselves out, by grabbing the top of the door takes it's toll.

David

[Jacques Reed]

Originally Posted by Ganmain Tony

The original lines are steel but are covered in a fabric. They also have a couple of curls in them. Note at the top of this photo you can see the curl in the fuel line.
Admittedly this is a 2WD 13 Cab but i'm pretty sure it'd be the same in a 12 Cab...

Good Day Shane,

See attached photo of the loop in the fuel line at the LH side of my F15-A with the fabric covering mentioned. The loop allows for the flexing between the chassis and cabin at the rear cabin mount springs.
Not sure if my fuel lined are the originals but they are steel and seem to be very old. The fuel lines and fabric covering was on it when I purchased the vehicle 20 years ago.

I found a good substitute for that cloth covering for fuel lines and a very close match. It is bitumen impregnated woven electrical conduit and is available from Vintage Wiring Harness in Ringwood Vic. Slides easily over the 1/4" tubing. That same conduit material is also used on No.3 and No.5 HT leads where they cross over the inlet manifold from the distributor of the Ford V8 engine to prevent chafing and to protect the wire from the coil to the distributor.

Cheers,

[Bob Carriere]

.... thanks for the detailed answer.

I have a drill press and will try drilling my own jig. Will post my results.

On the home made little post you made.... they are available from Macs Auto and are made of weak pot metal like the originals. Yours will be much stronger and last longer.

To David D. yes all the extra weight on pulling yourself up into a cab 11/12 or cab 13 certainly takes it toll... and the driver's door always shows more wear.

Will beat a path to the metal shop on Monday for blocks of steel to make a die.

Cheers