2015 at the Hammond Barn

[Bob Carriere]

The issue here is finding the right bearings for the "transmission counter shaft"

I will try to insert my pictures as I go along within the text.... never tried it before must see if I can do it as per Hanno's instructions.

First thing to do is to find a spare tranny to play with. Had one with a missing PTO cover so it was dry as a popcorn fart and a lot easier to take apart.

First thing to remove was the back cover..... the top four bolts had already been removed due to a catastrophic failure.... the bolts from the flange on the output flange had worked loose and broke the casing and decapitated the four bolts..... that is why the tranny was a spare or parts donor.

The flange was removed first then the cover came off after removing the remaining 3 bottom bolts..... remember to save the spacer on the inside of the cover. The photo shows the rear side of the tranny. The bottom shaft is the countershaft we need to get to.

Now to insert the picture.
IMG_0231.jpg

I think it is working.

So the tranny has to be taken apart to get to the countershaft at the vary bottom. First remove the shift cover.
IMG_0234.jpg
No surprises.... the gears are dirty, surface grime and rust but truns freely and no missing or chewed up teeth.


The front cover of the input shaft was removed...saving the 7/17 bolts and the special retainer washers. A bit of tapping on the rear fo the output shaft with a brass hammer moves the entire shaft and will pushout the front bearing and the front of the input shaft..... pull out the input shaft and bearing.... the rear part of the shaft will remain in the tranny
IMG_0237.jpg

....careful because inside the shaft is a small bearing shaped like a squirrel cage.... wrap up with a paper towel and put a side.

Will continue on the next posting...... obviously having an Australian problem.
( seems all my cell phone pictures are upside down)
Cheers

[Bob Carriere]

Let first try a picture of the trany with the cover removed showing the grimy but complete gear cluster.

NOTE.... Hanno when I click on the paper clip the
ATTACHMENT WINDOW does not open.....?

so back to the old way...

Ooops....something is wrong... tried the regular attachment and it does not work...for me at least...

will return when the technical difficulties have been resolved.

Boob

[RHClarke]

Hi Bob, How is the wood pile holding out? By the way, is that an Australian contract tranny?

[Bob Carriere]

OK Time for a break....maybe even a beer........

Will try again later when my nerves are less frazzelled.....


Let try again a picture of the tranny with the cover removed showing the grimmy but complete gear cluster.

...needed resizing.....arghhh!!
So far so good....not so good the limit of 5 pictures still applies no matter where they are inserted or they all become invalid.

Next the whole top shaft has to be removed using a 9 in, brass drift tap the front of the shaft where the input gear came out and the rear bearing should come off the rear of the tranny..... the whole gears assembly will slide off the shaft and can be lifted out of the tranny case.

IMG_0233resozed.jpg

IMG_0235crop.jpg



Next we need to remove the reverse gear to access the countershaft.


The hardest part is working up the nerve to hammer out the countershaft.

Again with a sturdy brass drift pin you need to hammer out towards the front of the case the whole assembly taking care to hit on the centre of the shaft and not on the bearing.

Here is the complete counter shaft.


You can see the counter shaft OD measurements of 43.99 calls for a bearing at 44.0mm showing a bit of wear or accuracy of the caliper. The overall OD size is 72mm for the 1207 bearing.

Hyatt no longer exists as a brand but sourced NTN 207 which SHOULD fit.... will know later this week when the new bearing come in.

The problem child is the front bearing. Now replaced by NTN #NJ206. Now this bearing comes with a center race which is removed by hand and should result in a perfect fit on the front of the shaft.




The outside OD is 62MM, which is correct, the inside has to be measured from the OD of the insert which read as per the photo.

When you measure the OD of the shaft .. calls for 38mm new.



and the OD of the insert.....





you are short approx 0.45 mm.....whcih results in a very loose bearing.

I am now awaiting a NTN #NJ 206E which mayve a getter fit will know later this week.

Meanwhile who can contribute to solving this problem......

Is there a better fitting bearing that you may have used in your past tranny rebuild....????

It is nice to be able to insert pictures at the right place in the text BUT it takes a lot of twealing around from croppng to resizing to adding text than managing the individual attachments AND taking care to DELETE the ones previously inserted.....

...but I think I did it. What else can you do on a cold day!!!

Cheers

PS.... what happened this time......??? I am going back to the stone tablets....

[Bob Carriere]

.... my patience with the box is hitting bottommmmmmm

[chris vickery]

Looking good Bob.
Your pics bring back memories of restoring my 12 cab...
I like how you made the bottom framework for the cab.
I made my pieces from flatstock cut out on the bandsaw to the correct radius and pieced into place by cutting out the bottom part of the angle and then wrapping the angle to match the flat radiused piece.
No fancy bending required and just a bit of welding. Of course I had made a template on a sheet of plywood just to be sure using the old frame.
At the end of the day whatever works.
Just wait until you have to re skin the back of the cab.
My windshield frame was custom built from 2 M37 window frames, cut and welded on a jig to original specs using the old refurbished hardware.

[Phil Waterman]

Hi Bob

First we are talking Chevy CMP?

Assuming yes then, as to which way you drive out the lower counter shaft I'm not sure which way it likes to be driven, put it is definitely one way. I believe the end toward the bell-housing is tapered so that it goes in from the rear and is driven out toward the rear.

Someone please confirm, because memory says that someone on MLU has BROKEN a case by driving the shaft the wrong way. (15 minutes later checked the manual and the lower idler shaft goes in from the rear and out toward the rear, my problem was what the different shafts are called.)

Strange you should be looking for transmission parts it is the Second Transmission Rebuild Question This Month I've read. Herman, in Belgium was in touch last week looking for help with getting parts to rebuild the lower cluster shaft bearings for his CMP. His problem was his e-mail would not work to get in touch with Obsolete Chevy in Georgia little e-mail relaying e-mails between the gal who knows what parts they have stashed away, and Herman and his parts are now on the way.

Obsolete Chevy http://www.obschevy.com/Pages/OurCatalogs.html parts is where I've been getting transmission parts for years. They are the ones who had a NOS transmission when I needed on two years ago. You can check on line to see if they have the part you need. But if they don't have it listed give them a call because they have a lot of parts not listed in online catalog because they have only one or two.



Cheers Phil

[Bob Carriere]

Hi Chris

Yes we discussed cutting and doing a curve piece as you mentioned but in the end did the pie cuts and welding.

We have now finished replacing the bottom angle iron. A jig is really needed when you start cutting out parts as the remainder becomes very floppy.

See photos of the semi finished back wall. It has to go back in the jig to finish the reinforcement ribs and tack weld them in the proper spot.

Cheers