2015 at the Hammond Barn

[Phil Waterman]

Hi Bob

Congratulations on this milestone.

Because of rule changes down here it has been getting harder and harder to register old trucks that have no paper work. Took getting turned down at four levels before they finally sent a DOT cop out to the house to look at the truck.

Cheers Phil

[Bob Carriere]

....actually had to trace on of the sons of the original owner.... thank God for the Web....

Also...using the small one person rural outlet in Rockland made the difference.... too many people too many advice and opinions...... even had my restored 1940 plate verified and checks out OK so I can get a YOM plate....

The plate is referred to as a shorty with only 2 numerals one letter one numeral about 10 inches...... will look good on the truck.

Next debate.... can you get a YOM for a period CMP trailer????.... already have the plate.....

In Ontario you need two plates front and back BUT in 1943 and 45 and 46 only one plate was produced and WILL be accepted for a YOM......

...another fine point. you can affix a small metal tab of the same yellow color as the 1940 plate( they sell for $20 ) to the top of the plate to hold your yearly certication tag....

Takes juggling but it can be done.

Cheers

[RHClarke]

The usual: weather too hot/muggy/wet, the Hammond airforce out in large numbers, domestic chores getting in the way of CMP fun, and some CMP/SMP activity.

The unusual: Bob and Grant recovered a CMP trailer, both went to Weare for the annual show; my focus remains on my M37 cargo box restoration and the installation of the new wiring harness (later this week). Oh yes, we received a visit from the "prez" on his way back from New Brunswick - see photo.

Photos

1 - Bob and Grant playing with metal glue on Bob's cab frame.
2 - The frame bound up to let the glue cure.
3 - M37 bed floor after plenty of welding and rust killer paint.
4 - Chris dropped by for a short but informative visit.

[Bob Carriere]

Trying to sort out what the switches are connected/labelled for on the cab 11.....

In particular the 3 little toggle switches.

I have included what I photographed on board an early C8...... amazing that the white lettering is still legible aftr all these years..... BUT .... are they correct/original???



And a picture of my dash where the switches from left to right reads....


STOP TAIL INST.

Are they correct????

The white knob switch and the one next/below to it have been removed and welded shut.....alos removed the extra ignition key switch....

Cheers

[David DeWeese]

Hi Bob.

Here's an earlier post by you back when I was trying to sort out the toggle switches on my cab11 C8, look at post #200-:
http://www.mapleleafup.net/forums/sh...t=11657&page=7

Thanks again, David

[Bob Carriere]

Ah how soon we forget...

Thanks David.

Since I have not been able to find an "Official" dash picture from a government publication I am still questionning the three toggle switches on mine......

Wondering what Phil Waterman and others who are just recently restoring other cab 11/12 might have to offer.

Still do not understand why I have a two way switch for the instruments????

and I now recognize that I will need to buy a civilian Chev headlight switch and something to replace the gas tank gauge switch as the one that was installed belonged to a South Wind Heater.

Will be posting some recent truck photos in a separate thread.

Cheers

[Bob Carriere]

Well we finally finished the rear wall using that "body shop metal glue". A bit tricky as this was just the second time we used it.

Leave a very smooth finish...... notice total absence of the original CMP manufacturing spot weld.....I know it is too smooth and not original anymore. But the body glue has the advantage of effectively seal the bottom angle iron to the sheet metal which hopefully will prevent the previous rust problem. The stiffening ribs were also glued with the same product instead of the original 3 or 4 sloppy spot weld. It makes for a very tight and solid back wall. Primed with POR 15 and 3 coats of OD 34087 flat.

I used a 1/2 inch x 1/8 thick soft sticky rubber ( do not know what it is called as procured from a flea market) on each side of the floor bolt pattern. All bolted with 5/16 new grade 8 fine thread bolts. The rubber material squished down fine and filled all the irregularities of the dot and dash floor plate. Also used the 1/2 in. cab 12 reinforcements in the rear corner ......all which makes a very stiff rear wall.

Using a carpenter square confirmed that the wall sat at almost a perfect 90 degrees to the floor and frame.

That was for the good news.

Note ..the original unfinished roof was installed to see how things fitted.