2015 at the Hammond Barn

[David DeWeese]

Hi Bob.

Here's an earlier post by you back when I was trying to sort out the toggle switches on my cab11 C8, look at post #200-:
http://www.mapleleafup.net/forums/sh...t=11657&page=7

Thanks again, David

[Bob Carriere]

Ah how soon we forget...

Thanks David.

Since I have not been able to find an "Official" dash picture from a government publication I am still questionning the three toggle switches on mine......

Wondering what Phil Waterman and others who are just recently restoring other cab 11/12 might have to offer.

Still do not understand why I have a two way switch for the instruments????

and I now recognize that I will need to buy a civilian Chev headlight switch and something to replace the gas tank gauge switch as the one that was installed belonged to a South Wind Heater.

Will be posting some recent truck photos in a separate thread.

Cheers

[Bob Carriere]

Well we finally finished the rear wall using that "body shop metal glue". A bit tricky as this was just the second time we used it.

Leave a very smooth finish...... notice total absence of the original CMP manufacturing spot weld.....I know it is too smooth and not original anymore. But the body glue has the advantage of effectively seal the bottom angle iron to the sheet metal which hopefully will prevent the previous rust problem. The stiffening ribs were also glued with the same product instead of the original 3 or 4 sloppy spot weld. It makes for a very tight and solid back wall. Primed with POR 15 and 3 coats of OD 34087 flat.

I used a 1/2 inch x 1/8 thick soft sticky rubber ( do not know what it is called as procured from a flea market) on each side of the floor bolt pattern. All bolted with 5/16 new grade 8 fine thread bolts. The rubber material squished down fine and filled all the irregularities of the dot and dash floor plate. Also used the 1/2 in. cab 12 reinforcements in the rear corner ......all which makes a very stiff rear wall.

Using a carpenter square confirmed that the wall sat at almost a perfect 90 degrees to the floor and frame.

That was for the good news.

Note ..the original unfinished roof was installed to see how things fitted.

[Bob Carriere]

Panice set in when I installed the cab 12 doors that I repaired over two years ago.

Yea carumba the doors don't fit.....

Will have to slice that door and widden by over an inch.

No cut the floor instead becauce the origianl canvass windows will not fit if you lenghten the door.

I told you not to mix cab 11 and cab 12 parts

Shawdupp!!!!

So we took a break and went for coffee.....

see the scary pictures of my crippled doors.... and no they are not Autralian prototype of the Summer door.

[Gordon Yeo]

Bob

Your scaring me! Don't mix 11 & 12 parts !!!!!!!!!

Gord

[Bob Carriere]

Fully charged with sucrose and cholesterol we can back.....

As any one figured out the answer.......

Why is the door so short???

I measured two other sets of cab 12 doors and they all measured 26 1/4 in. more or less.......

Door opening is the same size as all the other cab 12 I have and the front and rear opening is all near paralelle.....

It is at this point that we fitted the windshield pipe frame and the roof..... desperately looking for reassurance that I woud not have to take the cab apart and cut off an inch to shortent it.

We bolted the cab agaisnt the back wall tightly and it support itself without any links to the windshield pipe frame and lined up very nicely.

Still that huge gap in the door.......

So I decided to try out the original cab 11 door..... now the hinges are all bent out of shape but nonetheless...............
......... most of the gap disappeared....?

The solution is complex and as yet to be fully tested...

First the leading edge of the door...... where the sheet metal skin is folded over is at least twice as wide as all opposite side or the bottom and curved area.

But I am still short of reaching the actual latch mechanism in the front cab frame.

My front latch frame on the arches are also worn and have since been removed fro sandlasting and rebuilding to full size with the welder.

The other observations is that of all the doors that I have NOT one set of hinges has the same twist, deformation and /or butchered welding.

So selecting the best hinges and using the hydraulic press we have reshaped a full set to the same profile which I believe...... fingers crossed..... will actually move the door forward sufficiently to line up properly.

I hope we have the solution and averted further surgery.

Progress report to follow.

Meanwhile any and all suggestions are desperately welcome.

Cheers

PS...... look at that smooth sheet metal curve....smooth as a baby's butt...... the sheet metal was rolled on both ends prior to gluing.....

[Bob Carriere]

I have not sat in my cab 11 with the roof installed since 2004.

Ouch........'tis tight....very tight.

Once in your fine......

I would hate to have to bail out under fire and might go down with the truck!!!!

Grant took a series of Yoga twist photos I use to get in..... including having to pull hard to squeeze my (long) left leg over the door sill.

But worth it!!!!

....can't seem to be able to attach the pictures!!!!
"MANAGE ATTACHEMENT" button will not work....

Seems I have runout of security tokens for posting???

[Bob Carriere]

Hi Gord

Yes mix and match......

Used the cab corner reinforcements, the radiator reinforcement bar that fits behind the fan. ....cab 12 vent opening as mine had been torched...... and some cab 12 engine covers section to patch up mine.......not to mention the doors....

....and so far so good!!!!!

Stay tuned.