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#1
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Now I know how to do it.
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Bob Carriere....B.T.B C15a Cab 11 Hammond, Ontario Canada |
#2
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Hi Bob,
Took some photos of the door hinges on my cab 11 C8 today. Both halves of the hinge are bent to give about 7/8" gap between the two pieces. Has a fairly large gap between the cab back panel and the hinged part of the door also...the doors fit and latch well. Thanks, David |
#3
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For the re assurance.....looking at your hinges I can see that my door hinges, which are flat at the moment, will need some tweaking to get the proper gap at the rear of the door. I also have the luxury of adjusting the door skin, which is not yet installed, to make up some of the space.
I feel better that I am moving in the right direction. Cheers
__________________
Bob Carriere....B.T.B C15a Cab 11 Hammond, Ontario Canada Last edited by Bob Carriere; 27-08-15 at 02:42. |
#4
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On your C8..... did you have or have you added any rubber trim to the doors or door sill.....?
As you know the early cab 11 was steel on steel but the luxurious cab 12 had some rubber seals retro fitted at least on the door sill curve over the fender. Curious if the door slam close with a clank or a thud!!!!!! Cheers
__________________
Bob Carriere....B.T.B C15a Cab 11 Hammond, Ontario Canada |
#5
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Hi Bob,
My truck had no remnants of rubber anywhere around the door openings. Both of the adjustable latch parts on the body were welded in place by someone, so I cleaned the welds up a little and the doors latched properly without modification to the hinges or anything...got lucky there! I did have to install two shims under the front of the rear body panel to make the doors raise at the front and line up right...one thin shim at the rear makes a big difference at the front... Thanks, David |
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Hi Bob
Couple of thoughts to add to the discussion of fitting the doors. 1. The fenders need to be inlace when the doors are fitted, remember I replaced one of my fenders after the fact along with the cab frame, (thanks to your kind help with better unbent parts) well as you might expect it changed the fit of the the door to the cab frame. But the real surprise was the edge of the door no longer cleared the fender as it closed. 2. Trick I use for fitting doors, hoods, etc. is to use a stack of refridgerator magnets on the sides, bottom etc as shims to get the door well centered. Take on mag from one side IMG_0837.jpg 3. I'm still using temporary hindges I made back in 2005, they work so well just never got around to trying to make ones that look like the original. Pat 12 Nose Alighment 019.jpg Made of a couple of bits of floor plate welded to two sections of 3/8ID pipe and 3/8th bolts though the result looks like a field expedient replacement part. Added advantage is easy to remove the doors. Cheers Phil PS Like your morning yoga exercise routine. No body told us that a requirement for getting into and out of CMPs was you have to be able to touch your knee to your ear.
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Phil Waterman `41 C60L Pattern 12 `42 C60S Radio Pattern 13 `45 HUP http://canadianmilitarypattern.com/ New e-mail Philip@canadianmilitarypattern.com Last edited by Phil Waterman; 27-08-15 at 17:41. Reason: Learning new computer |
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....since I am storing my cab 11 in a 20ft standard size sea container..... I am considering leaving by driver's side hinge pin loose so I can remove the door before driving in or I am in ofr the duration.....
... or cut a door opening on the side of the container lined up to the driver's door for easy exit and retrieval...... Why did they make them so small!!!!!! Cheers
__________________
Bob Carriere....B.T.B C15a Cab 11 Hammond, Ontario Canada |
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