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Malmberg truck centre on Micheal has POR in stock..... always best to callfirst since most of their inventory is located in Gatineau....... you ca cross the birdge and pick it up ot have them send it ot the Michael street location..... more expensive than buying on line.
Trick to save POR..... Get some cheap canning jars in 500ml or one 1000ml...... open the can.....pour into a paper coffee cup to do the job at hand..... pour the left over in the can into the glass jars as full as possible.....place half of a zip lock sadnwixh bag over the mouth of the jar and screw the lid on tight...... I have kept near full jar of POR for over a year. Plastic will keep the lid formpermanently gluing itself ot the jar...... the cheaper gallon will yeild over 3 full 1Litre jars Even used small 250 ml jam jars for small amount of left over quite succesfully. Remember to put on good thick nytrile rubber gloves before even picking up a can!!!!! Cheers
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Bob Carriere....B.T.B C15a Cab 11 Hammond, Ontario Canada |
#2
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The guide from Jordan is accurate.
POR prefers a slightly etched surface. Sandblast tecture is best. Followed by degreasing allow to dry Followed by Phosphoric acid spray allow to dry wipe off the white dust left over from the acid solution. Watch for fingerprint they will cause fisheyes.... clean rubber cloves are cheap insurance. Coating POR with self etching and or directly on tacky POR has given me crackled paint..... so I let it cure fully before spraying the self etching. POR also sells a Tie coat... baby blue... very thick self leveling sandable primer to cover POR..... on pitted frames it works fantastic once cured any top paint will adhere. BUT the tie coat is thick and you will loose some details on smaller parts and I then prefere to use the spray can of self etching primer. Spray painting with POR is quite feasible even if very dangerous....... I would never do it inside..... there are no face mask that will properly filter the fumes which can harden in your lungs for permanent damage. Done outside in open air...preferably in a rural area...... no near neighbours, kids or pets is safer. I still use a comprehensive face cartrige filter, stay up wind of any drifting paint, wear old clothes, and wear a grinding face mast over your glasses as you cannot wipe POR driplets from the lens.....ask me how I know. POR sprayed is very light and can run like crazy..... removing runs requires the part to be sandblasted and even them is it difficult to remove. Best sprayed in light coats or on flat surfaces. Bolt theads and captive nuts will require cleaning with a tap and die. If you use paint brushes buy cheap ones and discard.. not worth trying to clean them. I only use POR supplied reducer and because it is so thin in consistency I hardly need to use any when spraying. I use cheap gun wash at $35 for a 5 gallons which is a recycled mixture of xylene, tuolene, MEK, eye of a bat. etc which is strong enough to clean the guns..... and gun cleaning has to be done immediately///// if you second coat..... clean the gun first...let the parts get tacky and reset up the gun again. It is wonderful stuff.... a bit expensive but done right is very permanent. The gloss is best used on inner sections of CMP rims ...... I to prefer the semigloss and self etching for most jobs. Just finished reskinning my doors and will be carefully dripping POR around all the inner edges... it will flow into the smallest crevasses to bond and seal..... messy has it will drip on the barn floor but very effective. If you like to wear a belt and suspender POR is for you. Done carefully it is safe. Cheers PS.... the new shinny door skins will be buffed with 300 grit sand paper to insure the POR will adhere. The inside has already been buffed and painted with POR except for the edges where it will be spot welded........ that is why I will drip POR to seal the edges..... spot welded surface edges were cleaned with acetone prior to spot welding.
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Bob Carriere....B.T.B C15a Cab 11 Hammond, Ontario Canada Last edited by Bob Carriere; 22-02-16 at 19:19. |
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To Rob, Jordan, and Bob,
Thanks for all the great info and handy hints on preparation, storing, and cleanup of POR 15. Think I will go the disposable brush route as opposed to spraying as it is a moot point trying to get a perfect finish on an already pitted pieces of steel that is hidden from view anyway. The only purpose, in my case, is to make the tyres go on and off easier and prevent rusting inside the wheels. I don't really want to invest in a full painters hood either for a once off job and after reading the posts would not consider spraying it with anything less than that PPE. It's pretty nasty stuff along with the cleanup chemicals if not handled properly. I had tried the old painter's trick of wrapping the brush in plastic food wrap between the two test coats on the wheel. It doesn't work. An hour later the bristles were as stiff as a board. Luckily it was an old el cheapo brush, and so was the second. Cheers,
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F15-A 1942 Battery Staff Jacques Reed |
#4
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A word of caution.....
some foam or plastic cup or certain small food container will dissolve the cup before you finish painting the POR..... Similarly some black foam paint brush with melt in POR...... Jacques..... I hope you have read the thread on installing tires on CMP rims..... the POR will help greatly......I encourage you to make your own device to facilitate the installation...... the time it will save you will be worth your while. Keep us posted with pictures of you progress.... some of us can't read!!! A tip to save you eye glasses......smear you lens with your own body oil from your forehead.... it will look a bit blurry BUT the POR will not stick to the lens. did we say nasty stuff??? Bob
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Bob Carriere....B.T.B C15a Cab 11 Hammond, Ontario Canada |
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Hi Bob,
The great tips just keep on coming! Many thanks. Yes, have been following the tyre thread with great interest. I am very lucky that I scored a set of 5 NOS Dunlop Trak Grips many years ago and later purchased a set of Simex T24s which I believe were ex-Singapore or Malaysian military. They were made from the Dunlop T24 moulds for British wheels. Needless to say, the original Dunlop's slipped on easily on just cleaned and primed rims using only rubber lubricant. No tools required. I decided in view of their rarity, not to use the Dunlops and keep them for display purposes only plus the Simex tyres were over 50 years newer and therefore I felt safer for road use. These will go on the POR 15 painted wheels. Measurements indicate they are the same bead profile and 5 degree angle as the Dunlops but I want to give myself every advantage of slipping them on, and more importantly, slipping them off the rims, should the need arise hence the POR 15. Cheers,
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F15-A 1942 Battery Staff Jacques Reed |
#6
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Only if you consider MEK, Xylene, and Toluene safe!
PPE absolutely essential. Cheers,
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F15-A 1942 Battery Staff Jacques Reed |
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Of the 3, I consider the Xylene relatively safe. I do not like the other two.
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#8
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Don't want to get too far off topic of POR 15 but it is always good to know what is in the thinners and spray gun cleaning solvents we use.
As most of us know, it all about the exposure levels to these chemicals and the risk management of them. I find it interesting that Artline felt pens have "Xylene Free" printed on them. Is that because of some requirement to a perceived risk, or to tell those that would sniff them for a high that it is not worth the effort? Cheers,
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F15-A 1942 Battery Staff Jacques Reed |
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