POR 15 or Chassis Saver Paint in Ontario

[Jacques Reed]

Originally Posted by Bob Carriere

did we say nasty stuff???

Bob

Only if you consider MEK, Xylene, and Toluene safe!

PPE absolutely essential.

Cheers,

[rob love]

Of the 3, I consider the Xylene relatively safe. I do not like the other two.

[Jacques Reed]

Don't want to get too far off topic of POR 15 but it is always good to know what is in the thinners and spray gun cleaning solvents we use.

As most of us know, it all about the exposure levels to these chemicals and the risk management of them.

I find it interesting that Artline felt pens have "Xylene Free" printed on them.

Is that because of some requirement to a perceived risk, or to tell those that would sniff them for a high that it is not worth the effort?

Cheers,

[rob love]

MLU threads wander.......it's how we learn.

I looked up the health effects of xylene, since I do tend to use a fair bit of it between painting and cleanup. It does not collect in the body, and while over-exposure can be bad (so can too much chocolate) normal exposures will dissipate.

I can't say the same for MEKA, which I consider very bad. The carb cleaner at work has MEKA as an ingredient. Cleans things up very well.....too well.

[Bob Carriere]

I worked briefly in a sheet metal shop and they were using MEK..... not for long...
according to safety manuals there are no barriers that one can wear to prevent the MEK from migrating into your skin.... all work rubber, nytril, latex gloves have a certain degree of porosity and the MEK goes through them.....in fact it is recommended NOT to wear protective gloves as it will keep the chemical in skin contact longer than bare hands were the MEK will evaporate faster.

The gun wash I buy is handled accordingly....and by the way it will desolve 3/4 inch of hard varnish deposit in old CMP tanks.

My preference for diluting OD flat paint is high test gasoline with no alcohol in it.

We wander but it is all paint related.

Cheers

[chris vickery]

Never used POR, seems a little expensive and troublesome to me.
A good epoxy primer is relatively inexpensive, sticks well to anything and doesn't involve any magic tricks, potions or the like to work, use or save for future use. Sandblast, wipe down with metal prep and spray, job done.
It's all I use and at the end of the day will outlive anything I will ever put back together. It's also superior to the old school red oxide primer of yesteryear.
BTW, how long was that old enamel mil-spec paint stuck on there before it was blasted off a restoration project???