2017 F15A Starting over

[sth65pac]

This is looking at it end on. Not good

Hopefully I can get this all straight.

Cheers,

Ian

[T Creighton]

Hi Ian,
Good to see you are getting back into the restoration again.
You say in the beginning that you are not a perfectionist. Even so, pulling that rear end completely out, getting rid of the rust that will be between the plates, making a new xmember, painting it and riveting it all back together again will give you lots of satisfaction when you stand back and look at the finished job.

Re the paint:
On my current Morris Commercial job I am using Wattyl Solarguard roof paint over PPG Industrial Coatings Protecto Primer. Sandblasted and hand prepared steel. Good for wood as well.
Guaranteed for 15 years on house roofs so no porosity with that and it's so easy to apply by brush or spray.
10 times easier than the 2 pot "Lechsys" system that I used on the Ford restoration and no horrible solvents involved. A lot cheaper as well.
Their stock "Karaka" colour suits me fine but they will probably tint it to whatever colour you want.
Best regards, Terry

[sth65pac]

Originally Posted by T Creighton

Hi Ian,
Good to see you are getting back into the restoration again.
You say in the beginning that you are not a perfectionist. Even so, pulling that rear end completely out, getting rid of the rust that will be between the plates, making a new xmember, painting it and riveting it all back together again will give you lots of satisfaction when you stand back and look at the finished job.

Re the paint:
On my current Morris Commercial job I am using Wattyl Solarguard roof paint over PPG Industrial Coatings Protecto Primer. Sandblasted and hand prepared steel. Good for wood as well.
Guaranteed for 15 years on house roofs so no porosity with that and it's so easy to apply by brush or spray.
10 times easier than the 2 pot "Lechsys" system that I used on the Ford restoration and no horrible solvents involved. A lot cheaper as well.
Their stock "Karaka" colour suits me fine but they will probably tint it to whatever colour you want.
Best regards, Terry

Thanks Terry,
I am going to use my favoured paint of Concept. It is not cheap but it remains pretty stable in colour and finish. Wattyl in my neck of the woods is a swear word lol.

Cheers,
Ian

[sth65pac]

Managed to get the lower cab off the chassis on Saturday. What a job. No surprises but 75 YO bolts were FT!



Now I can access the fuel switch and lines to make new ones. This part will go to the sand blasters eventually or I will home sand blast it.



Lastly


Are the cab mounts available or do I make my own???
Cheers,

Ian

[Lynn Eades]

They look like Ford v8 engine mounts? (you can tell I'm not up on CMPs)

[Phil Waterman]

Hi Ian

I made my own rubber washers for my C60S, I had a hint as to how to make them though when I took my truck apart. When I looked at the original rubber mounts on my truck, noted that they were made out of layers cut from tires. Apparantly cut from the side walls of tires, now we know what one of the uses they made of all those tires collected in rubber drives during WWII.

They were easy to make just took a hole saw of the correct size and cut out rubber donuts from the side walls of tires. Then drilled the center bolt hole on the drill press. Found that bias ply non-steel belted tires worked best.

Enjoy your restoration keep us posted on progress.

Cheers Phil

[Grant Bowker]

Both rubber insulators (the upper one seen in the photo C29Q-8111240 and the lower one hidden by the cast bracket C29Q-8111241) are shown in the parts book with the "peculiar to Canadian Military Pattern" asterisk. I understand this to mean that the part wasn't an off the shelf part before adoption for CMP use but it is possible that the part could have been adopted for another use later on. The same two part number insulators are listed for the mount at center rear of the cab.