F60L resto NSW Australia

[Jacques Reed]

Hi David,

Wish I could tell you how to un-seize them but I can't. Years ago I tried everything from filling with Penetrene, acetone, and even soaking in kero for a month. Nothing moved. I didn't try brake fluid and acetone together as has been mentioned before as a great penetrant for seized nuts and studs. Perhaps that might work?

I wound up getting them restored by Frank Curcio in Melbourne who specialized in reconditioning those type of shock absorber as used on A Model Fords but are a bit smaller. He took a couple extra ones apart for me so I could have a look. I don't think he is still in business though. To do it again I would do it myself as all he did was heat up the arm at the pivot shaft while using a puller that he fabricated for the job. Once the arm is off, the hardest part, the rest comes apart easily for cleaning.

As per the photos Houdaille shock absorbers are beautifully machined and that is the problem. Once the fluid congeals or goes hard in those tight clearances it effectively locks everything up.

Beware too that they have a clockwise and anti-clockwise operation so you cannot swap left to right and vice versa should you find some that move.

There are a few websites that explain Houdaille shock absorbers which makes for interesting reading.

Hopefully I got the ball rolling and someone will be able to add to this.

Cheers,

[Jacques Reed]

Originally Posted by Jacques Reed

Hi David,

Beware too that they have a clockwise and anti-clockwise operation so you cannot swap left to right and vice versa should you find some that move.

Cheers,

Further to previous post:

The attachment lugs are stamped either "AC" for anti-clockwise or "CW" for clockwise. See attached photo.

The filling plug should always be on the top too, so if it is at the bottom it probably has been mounted on the wrong side.

Cheers,

[David Nicholson]

Does anyone know if the old style valves (tapered bottom) are sodium filled? I'm having a great deal of trouble removing the old valve guides. I want to cut the bottom off the valve, remove the valve, then drift the guide out from the cam side.....

[Tony Smith]

It's not an uncommon problem, and "back in the day" there were 2 styles of tools designed to attack the problem. Funnily enough, both were recently for sale on Ebay AU (I wasn't the buyer or seller, although I might have placed a bid). Keep an eye out on Ebay US, they do appear there quite frequently.

First, the bridge type. Remove the horseshoe clip holding the valve guide. Lift the valve enough to slip the centre threaded casting over the opened valve. The outer tube is placed over it and spans the valve seat area. Wind the nut, and keep winding, nothing will resist and the whole valve, guide and spring assembly will be drawn out of the block. Flatattack Racing did reproduce this tool for some time, and with his trademark excellent machining, but they have not been available for some years.

And secondly, the punch type. Again with the valve open, slip this under the valve and around the valve stem, and find the biggest hammer you've got and take one last look at your knuckles before you drive the guide into the lifter valley.

[David Nicholson]

Just picked these up!!!! 6 x 12-20 wheels and tyres! I've just got to buy tubes! Do these rims require a rim/tube protector? I was thinking of making a rubber band to protect the tube from chafing!

If anyone is wondering, I want 2 spares!

Truck is going to be military original, but with a Adventure truck tray/roll bars! That's the plan so far!

[David Nicholson]

I,m still considering using bolt cutters on these bottom valve stems. The guides can be drifted out if I do!

[Phil Waterman]

Hi David

Yes you will probably want to use tube flaps to protect the tube. Depending on how the tires were stored you may also have to open them up so that the mounting lip will slide on the rims. Will look for the thread where this was discussed. It's in the Hammond Barn Series.

The problem is if the tires have been stacked they may have closed down at the opening. One of the things I have done is to put the tubes in with the tire laying on the floor and just inflate until the tire opens up to about the width of the rim and let them sit for a day or two. Seems to save on wrestling match.

I've been running 11:00x20s non-directionals on my C60S for 27 years with out problems. The 12:00x20s should give you a little more rubber over drive.

Cheers Phil

[Mike Cecil]

OR just break the head off the valve (quick sideways tap with a hammer on the open valve forced up with a jemmy bar underneath the valve stem base) and use a standard punch to drive the lot into the valley. Then replace the broken valves and two piece valve guides with straight valves, single piece guides and adjustable lifters.

Mike

[Mike K]

Originally Posted by Mike Cecil

OR just break the head off the valve (quick sideways tap with a hammer on the open valve forced up with a jemmy bar underneath the valve stem base) and use a standard punch to drive the lot into the valley.

Mike

Don't let the garage WO1 see you doing that . You would have been on a charge for damaging His Majesty's precious equipment

This is how its done https://www.awm.gov.au/collection/C188811

[David Nicholson]

Great Video Mike!

Ok, just got the block back from its acid bath! After an hour or so with the wire brush, it's looking so much better! The great news is that it looks like a good block! No cracks found on first visual inspection after brushing. Will clean some more and check the problem areas.

Next step will be to somehow pressure test the water jacket just in case there are any porous areas.

Once I'm convinced that it will hold coolant it will go back to the machine shop for a re-bore. It's a standard block at the moment 3.1875 bore. There is some pitting on a couple of cylinders, so will order pistons once the final bore is established.

Will order parallel valves and single piece guides etc. ATM I will keep the original cam, although not ideal, it's an expensive item to replace.

[Lynn Eades]

Yes you do need a "flap" (rustband) in your tyres.
Congrats on the good block. Are you getting it crack tested?

There are 3 7/16" pistons available for these blocks(not that I am recommending you do that) although 3 5/16" is pretty safe. (they are meaty in the bore walls) What I would suggest is a set of modern pistons, and a good quality modern set of rings. (along with the things Mike suggested) Don't be tempted by "cheap"
If you are able to locate a good mercury crank, that gives you a 4 inch stroke. The longer stroke is good for torque. As a preference the longer stroke is better than the bigger bore if you have a choice of one. A merc crank requires different pistons, so you have to sort out your plan first.
You need to read as much as you can.
I have just recently fired up my motor. 3 5/16 Ross pistons, with a std (3 3/4) crank. This gives me 258 cu.in.

Learn about ZDDP, What are good adjustable lifters, Cleaning out the block, Pertronix etc.+++
Enjoy the journey.

[Mike Cecil]

Pity you are in Australia (or that I'm not!) as I have a set of eight new 3 5/16", 4-ring pistons & pins and rings 'surplus to requirements'.....

Plus a 1/2 set of 4 new 3 3/16" pistons and rings .... (don't ask me why!!!)

Anyone in the USA or Canada in need of a set?

Mike

[David Nicholson]

Engine stand slowly taking shape!

[David Nicholson]

Hi everyone, so I pulled the F60L (high and low with pot)Tx case apart. I knew that the intermediate shaft fwd bearing had failed, but the damage was worse than expected. The gears appear to be ok, but the main TX case has been chewed out. Does anyone have a similar photo showing the casting, so that I can make a comparison?

I need to decide if to replace the entire housing....I have a F15 Tx case in case somebody wants to swap!

What are people’s thoughts on the damage?

[hrpearce]

I have one pulled apart at the new property, I can take pictures on Sun. if no one beats me.

[sth65pac]

Originally Posted by hrpearce

I have one pulled apart at the new property, I can take pictures on Sun. if no one beats me.

Robert, does that mean you have one for David? If not, I might.

Cheers,

Ian
http://www.mapleleafup.net/forums/sh...172#post237172

[hrpearce]

I'll have to look on Sunday, I am 90% shore it is a Ford case. It is available if wanted.

[hrpearce]

Case is Ford, I also have another with all the cogs in but with the PTO blanked off.

[David Nicholson]

Well its been a while since I've posted anything....

So Robert Pearce offered me a replacement Ford TX case! 10.5 hours drive each way and boy did Rob deliver! I brought back two cases, one almost complete, the other just the case...

So off to the acid wash, and meanwhile assemble the best box I can....

Hear are some photo's

So such a big thanks to Rob.......As so many parts he gave me were either parts I did not have ie indent balls and springs, speedo drive housing etc, or the parts were in much better condition such as the PTO dog, Hi/Low selector gear etc

To the experts out there I have one question...

My original TX case had ball bearings for the input shaft(seen in the photos), and so my parts book says! However, both TX case's given to me have tapered roller bearings on the input shaft, this is also shown in a purchased operational manual for shim adjustment procedures!

Shaft sizes are identical for the bearing mounts, can I just put tapered roller bearings in instead of the original roller bearings?

[David Nicholson]

To the experts out there I have one question...

My original TX case had ball bearings for the input shaft(seen in the photos), and so my parts book says! However, both TX case's given to me have tapered roller bearings on the input shaft, this is also shown in a purchased operational manual for shim adjustment procedures!

Shaft sizes are identical for the bearing mounts, can I just put tapered roller bearings in instead of the original roller bearings?

[Ganmain Tony]

Seems you have everyone baffled David.

i was lucky to not have to pull mine apart. For what its worth, those round bearings are beautifully well made (I have some of them). If they were in there and in reasonable condition, put em back in.

The tapered roller bearings should work if they have the right surface to run (ie the cone). Again if they came out of the Tx case and in reasonable condition put em back in.

Enjoying your thread so far... great job

By the way you did say "to the experts out there"......... Im no expert

[David Herbert]

I would use whichever bearings are in good condition. Don't change them just for the sake of it. I would favour the ball bearings as you don't need to set up end play but the taper rollers were probably the later version as they can better resist the end thrust from the helical gears. This is a seventy year old truck so the transmission was never exactly silent when new. You are never going to do vast mileages so can be a bit more flexible than if it was working for its living.

David

[lendlease]

I do remember that there was a reason for the different types of bearings in the TC. Can't say now why....but I definitely would not put tapered roller bearings into a box that originally had ball roller bearings installed.

[David Nicholson]

Thanks to everyone for their input. Sorry its been so long since i posted, work has given me some additional challenges.....

Anyway, here is my tx case, all with new bearings(except one which was ok), seals, and re-shimmed! just waiting on the selector seals, and some intermediate shaft locking clips which i broke on disassembly!

Will clean and paint in the next week. Then my gearbox comes out for the same treatment.......

if anyone has a spare running 24 stud flat-head v8 motor they don't want let me know!
I'll rebuild mine, but having trouble sourcing somebody locally who actually knows these engines!

[David Nicholson]

Just seeing if some restored bits and pieces fit. Now got both left and right hand tanks. Bumper bar and fittings seem to fit ok! Front cabin cross member was missing from some sort of impact. Have been waiting for the grill so that I can fit it up again. Waiting on the brush bar and fittings.....

[David Nicholson]

Ah, the smell of Lycomming gray heat proof paint! New bearings, seals, correct pre-load........

The only thing I'm missing is the correct selector gates which had been modified at some point. I'd like to go back to the original having 2x4,4x4, PTO all on the same selector.

Now for the gearbox!

[David Nicholson]

Opened the gearbox and it looks ok! Reverse though looks quite secondhand!

How hard is it to get spares for these Ford gearboxes?

Time to get messy!