F60L resto NSW Australia

[David Nicholson]

I,m still considering using bolt cutters on these bottom valve stems. The guides can be drifted out if I do!

[Phil Waterman]

Hi David

Yes you will probably want to use tube flaps to protect the tube. Depending on how the tires were stored you may also have to open them up so that the mounting lip will slide on the rims. Will look for the thread where this was discussed. It's in the Hammond Barn Series.

The problem is if the tires have been stacked they may have closed down at the opening. One of the things I have done is to put the tubes in with the tire laying on the floor and just inflate until the tire opens up to about the width of the rim and let them sit for a day or two. Seems to save on wrestling match.

I've been running 11:00x20s non-directionals on my C60S for 27 years with out problems. The 12:00x20s should give you a little more rubber over drive.

Cheers Phil

[Mike Cecil]

OR just break the head off the valve (quick sideways tap with a hammer on the open valve forced up with a jemmy bar underneath the valve stem base) and use a standard punch to drive the lot into the valley. Then replace the broken valves and two piece valve guides with straight valves, single piece guides and adjustable lifters.

Mike

[Mike K]

Originally Posted by Mike Cecil

OR just break the head off the valve (quick sideways tap with a hammer on the open valve forced up with a jemmy bar underneath the valve stem base) and use a standard punch to drive the lot into the valley.

Mike

Don't let the garage WO1 see you doing that . You would have been on a charge for damaging His Majesty's precious equipment

This is how its done https://www.awm.gov.au/collection/C188811

[David Nicholson]

Great Video Mike!

Ok, just got the block back from its acid bath! After an hour or so with the wire brush, it's looking so much better! The great news is that it looks like a good block! No cracks found on first visual inspection after brushing. Will clean some more and check the problem areas.

Next step will be to somehow pressure test the water jacket just in case there are any porous areas.

Once I'm convinced that it will hold coolant it will go back to the machine shop for a re-bore. It's a standard block at the moment 3.1875 bore. There is some pitting on a couple of cylinders, so will order pistons once the final bore is established.

Will order parallel valves and single piece guides etc. ATM I will keep the original cam, although not ideal, it's an expensive item to replace.

[Lynn Eades]

Yes you do need a "flap" (rustband) in your tyres.
Congrats on the good block. Are you getting it crack tested?

There are 3 7/16" pistons available for these blocks(not that I am recommending you do that) although 3 5/16" is pretty safe. (they are meaty in the bore walls) What I would suggest is a set of modern pistons, and a good quality modern set of rings. (along with the things Mike suggested) Don't be tempted by "cheap"
If you are able to locate a good mercury crank, that gives you a 4 inch stroke. The longer stroke is good for torque. As a preference the longer stroke is better than the bigger bore if you have a choice of one. A merc crank requires different pistons, so you have to sort out your plan first.
You need to read as much as you can.
I have just recently fired up my motor. 3 5/16 Ross pistons, with a std (3 3/4) crank. This gives me 258 cu.in.

Learn about ZDDP, What are good adjustable lifters, Cleaning out the block, Pertronix etc.+++
Enjoy the journey.

[Mike Cecil]

Pity you are in Australia (or that I'm not!) as I have a set of eight new 3 5/16", 4-ring pistons & pins and rings 'surplus to requirements'.....

Plus a 1/2 set of 4 new 3 3/16" pistons and rings .... (don't ask me why!!!)

Anyone in the USA or Canada in need of a set?

Mike