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  #1  
Old 10-01-18, 21:03
Jordan Baker's Avatar
Jordan Baker Jordan Baker is online now
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I've found a number of one hole rebuild kits online. The MB-C2 has quite a lengthy section on rebuilding the one hole pump. So at least the information is available. See page P2 in MB-C2

The adaptor plate would only be the same thickness as the original backing plate already used on the water pumps. It's only 5/32" thick.

What the thoughts on drill a few more holes in the front of the block?
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Old 10-01-18, 22:13
Grant Bowker Grant Bowker is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jordan Baker View Post
What the thoughts on drill a few more holes in the front of the block?
With your reputation for horse shoes, do you know anyone with a "useless" block (for example badly cracked in the rear part or worn beyond rebore/sleeve limits) that would let you have the block to experiment on rather than using your running engine for the trial?
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Old 10-01-18, 22:55
Phil Waterman Phil Waterman is offline
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Default Use a drill press to drill block

Hi Grant

Yes, I've done it both free hand with a hand drill and with a drill press. Go with the drill press. I use a small in expensive bench drill press same one I use to drill frame holes. There are plenty of bolt holes on the front of the engine to mount the table plate to.

Drill press.jpg

Did this when I did the water pump on the 235 or 261 and it was much easier than using hand drill. Big difference is that you can get a straight tight hole that taps well for threads.

The big issue on the adapter plate was the holes that have a space between the face of the block and the machined face of the old water pump face. Hard to get the bolts tight without warping the plate casing a leak. I made spacers so that the adapter plate was completely supported.

When I drilled the block on the 235 to convert it to full flow filter I had the block stripped and mounted on engine rotisserie that time use the regular floor standing drill press, just dropped the work table down enough to get under the engine and lowered the head enough to get with in drill range. Drill slow and use oil on the drill and a sharp new drill get a nice hole that way.

Drill Engine on press.jpg

When all else fails use nuts.

Screen Shot 2018-01-10 at 4.51.58 PM.jpg

Cheers Phil
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  #4  
Old 11-01-18, 03:57
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Haha horseshoes....till you said that I forgot I had a cracked block sitting in the shop 10' away. I'll try it out on that first.

I just need to find a cheap drill press that I can mount up to the front of the block.
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  #5  
Old 11-01-18, 06:07
Bob Carriere Bob Carriere is offline
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Default Jordan drilling suggestion.....

Make yourself a copy of the bolt pattern on heavy gauge stock.
Get yourself some tubing appropriate to the size of the drill you intend to use.
Cut the tubes about 4" long.... and weld the tube as vertical to the heavy stock as possible and drill the other hole so it can be bolted to the block.

bolt the plate to the block using the existing holes and used the tubes as a guide...... make sure you do not go too deep ......cast iron drills very easily.

Or buy a lot of JB weld.....................
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Old 11-01-18, 22:41
motto motto is offline
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Ross Prince of Hervey Bay, QLD Australia has stainless steel, laser cut, single hole water pump back plates for sale at $25 each. They are 1/8" thick and require two of the bolt holes to be counter sunk.
The single hole pump was also used on the CCKW 270 engine.

David
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