Identification of F15 2WD? - Page 5

Lang · #**121** 30-08-18, 06:32

Here is right door info.

http://www.flagshipdetroit.org/FSD/Right-Side_Door.html

Lang

Ganmain Tony · #**122** 30-08-18, 13:27

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hanno Spoelstra

Looking good, Tony

Any thoughts about the cargo body? Meanwhile Robert Sexton has had Drawings for No1 Australian body made up.

Attachment 101870

Apparently this particular truck according to the AWM records was a fully imported truck from Canada and came with a 2C1 body.

I have one, (again generously given to me from Keith) suffice to say it is a "restorers delight".

I really really like the look of the No1 body and the effort Robert went to is certainly not lost on me.

At this stage Ill be trying to fix the Canadian body.

Having said all that, I have an Australian toolbox & spare wheel carrier that will be going on it.

I would like to find the original Canadian version with the clam shell spare, but I wont hold my breath till one turns up.

Mike Cecil · #**123** 30-08-18, 16:39

Hi Tony,

Your truck has had a roof-swap, too, as you have an Australian Ford roof and roof hatch. So putting the CTB 2C1 body on it would be good and look great (but very heavy compared to the Australian all-steel body), but it will still mean you'll need to look out for a Canadian roof/roofhatch and a Canadian spare wheel carrier/tool box if you wish to bring it back to original/'as delivered' configuration.

Great job you are doing.

Mike

Ganmain Tony · #**124** 13-09-18, 06:41

Thanks Mike for the kind words and helpful suggestions.

Spot on with the roof. I had no other option as the original roof has been chopped to accomodate the modification of the windscreen.

This roof that we repaired and painted was in pretty good nick and the only one available to me.

If anyone has a Canadian Ford roof I would be very interested to hear from you.

Picture shows completed rear curtain arrangement.

Ganmain Tony · #**125** 16-09-18, 11:06

Been a bloody fiddly job. Got there in the end.

Boots are from Macs but I dont think they are the correct ones.

They will do the job required none the less.

Ganmain Tony · #**126** 16-09-18, 11:27

Finally all the brake lines are in.

Not sure why but the last picture is on its side. Any chance one of the moderators could fix please?

Keith Webb · #**127** 16-09-18, 11:30

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ganmain Tony

Been a bloody fiddly job. Got there in the end.

Boots are from Macs but I dont think they are the correct ones.

They will do the job required none the less.

You should have asked. I have a couple NOS.

Keith Webb · #**128** 16-09-18, 11:32

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ganmain Tony

Finally all the brake lines are in.

Not sure why but the last picture is on its side. Any chance one of the moderators could fix please?

Here you go...

Ganmain Tony · #**129** 16-09-18, 11:38

Interesting.... have forum members seen these before?

(Ive no doubt some will have)

Im referring to the bracket attached to the rear spring that clamps to the handbrake cable.

Same thing again chaps. Last image is on its side (sorry).

They look like they would have frequently broken but do lift the cable somewhat out of the way of prospective branches and stumps.

Ganmain Tony · #**130** 16-09-18, 11:43

Quote:

Originally Posted by Keith Webb

You should have asked. I have a couple NOS.

Ok, asking now...

Pizza's and beer definitely on me next year at Corowa Keefy.

Additional reimbursement, if required, goes without saying.

Grant Bowker · #**131** 16-09-18, 13:35

I've seen remnants of these on springs but never the complete thing in place so it seems you are right about them often being broken. I hope you can put up dimensions for them so others can recreate them - including me for the 15cwt CMP trailer I'm working on (the trailer uses 15cwt Ford springs). Useful dimensions would be: stock size, spacing between holes and hole sizes.

Keith Webb · #**132** 17-09-18, 00:37

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ganmain Tony

Ok, asking now...

Pizza's and beer definitely on me next year at Corowa Keefy.

Additional reimbursement, if required, goes without saying.

Haha, look forward to it! Those little clips are interesting, I've seen them before but I don't think I've ever seen them connected.

Jacques Reed · #**133** 17-09-18, 04:39

Quote:

Originally Posted by Grant Bowker

I've seen remnants of these on springs but never the complete thing in place so it seems you are right about them often being broken. I hope you can put up dimensions for them so others can recreate them - including me for the 15cwt CMP trailer I'm working on (the trailer uses 15cwt Ford springs). Useful dimensions would be: stock size, spacing between holes and hole sizes.

Hi Grant et al,

Thought I would jump in here to get the ball rolling. I had two springs laying around so it was easy to get to the broken remnants to get the dimensions as a starter. See attached photo.

All we need is the length from the spring clip hole to the cable clamp hole. The rest can be pretty well deduced. I would think the clamp hole would be 9/32" diameter to accommodate a 1/4" bolt which it looks like in the photos.

Interestingly the brackets were mounted on different spring clips and not directly across from each other.

Hope this is of some help.

Cheers

Ganmain Tony · #**134** 17-09-18, 14:21

Hoping this is of some help.

Bolt head and nut 7/16 (or 11mm spanner/socket)

Third picture shows total length of clamp strap.

I wrapped the tape measure around the strap.

Images arent great but the focus should be on the tape measure.

First image is misleading, due to phone camera lens but the tape measure is positioned tip to tip from one end of the strap to the other.

Thanks Jacques for some incredibly helpful info.

Grant Bowker · #**135** 17-09-18, 16:06

Thank you to both of you for the dimensions and photos. Based on the photo, it looks as if the distance between the holes (center to center) is about 3-1/2 inches. Is this close?
7/16 across flats usually translates to a 1/4 thread (frequently fine thread on CMP).
The F15A-01 parts list suggests there were 3 versions of the clip: 01-2279 clip emergency brake conduit (an off the shelf part), C01Q-2279A clip rear brake cable (CMP unique) and C01Q-2279B (CMP unique, to be supplied after C01Q-2279A are depleted). I've no idea what the differences between versions may be.

Jacques Reed · #**136** 18-09-18, 00:14

Hi Tony and Grant,

Thanks Tony for supplying those extra dimensions. Should be an easy fabrication.
I'm betting it is 3-1/2" between centres of the bolt holes knowing how designers like to keep things simple.

Those bolts are very common on CMP's. They are 1/4-20 UNC and used to hold the dash panel, radiator grills, and windscreen hinges to name a few.

As this is a forum to exchange hints and tips here's a good one I have used occasionally which may be of interest:
Measuring things that have curvature or bends is hard to do with a tape measure due to its rigidity. I keep a bit of plastic banding tape used on heavy packages and run that around the object with appropriate tick marks then lay the banding tape out flat and measure that.

In the old days that tape was handy for opening car doors if you locked yourself out but modern designs render it ineffective.

Cheers,

Ganmain Tony · #**137** 18-09-18, 11:08

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jacques Reed

Hi Tony and Grant,

As this is a forum to exchange hints and tips here's a good one I have used occasionally which may be of interest:
Measuring things that have curvature or bends is hard to do with a tape measure due to its rigidity. I keep a bit of plastic banding tape used on heavy packages and run that around the object with appropriate tick marks then lay the banding tape out flat and measure that.

In the old days that tape was handy for opening car doors if you locked yourself out but modern designs render it ineffective.

Cheers,

Keeping in mind what Jacques has mentioned above... I have continued to do measurements the fool way I have previously posted.

Jacques

me

The holes middle to middle are 3 and 1/4 inch.

Repeat 3 and 1/4 inch.

Jacques Reed · #**138** 18-09-18, 22:49

Hi Tony,

Thanks for that measurement. Glad I didn't put any money down on 3-1/2" between centres!

Whatever gets the job done is OK by me too. As most restorers know there are a dozen different ways to do the same job. Just look at the posts on CMP tyre removal and installation!

Thanks again.

Cheers

Ganmain Tony · #**139** 24-09-18, 06:23

Just amazing the condition of the bearings and other diff internals.
Hard to believe this stuff is nearly eighty years old.

Tried to get a shot of the Ford script on the bearing cup. Can sort of make it out.

New seals arrived 2 months after I had ordered them.

Ganmain Tony · #**140** 25-09-18, 12:25

Appears to be to tight on passenger side. NOS cables may stretch a bit over time but there is a bit more to it.

Can only be the adjusting pin in the emergency brake lever. I thought its current postion had the lever as far back as it goes but the shoes are hard on the drum.

(Sigh) I'll have another go...tomorrow night.

Keith Webb · #**141** 25-09-18, 22:37

Maybe the anchor pins for the brake shoes need some adjustment?

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ganmain Tony

Appears to be to tight on passenger side. NOS cables may stretch a bit over time but there is a bit more to it.

Can only be the adjusting pin in the emergency brake lever. I thought its current postion had the lever as far back as it goes but the shoes are hard on the drum.

(Sigh) I'll have have another go...tomorrow night.

Jacques Reed · #**142** 25-09-18, 23:31

Hi Tony,

You probably know this, but that slotted wheel at the top of the shoes is also an adjustment for the distance between the shoes. There is an eccentric pin behind it which when the wheel is rotated moves the top of the shoes further in or out.

This may also affect the shoes making contact with the drum even with the brake lever all the way off.

Cheers,

Ganmain Tony · #**143** 26-09-18, 12:36

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jacques Reed

Hi Tony,

You probably know this, but that slotted wheel at the top of the shoes is also an adjustment for the distance between the shoes. There is an eccentric pin behind it which when the wheel is rotated moves the top of the shoes further in or out.

This may also affect the shoes making contact with the drum even with the brake lever all the way off.

Cheers,

Thanks Keefy and Jacques.

Yes that slotted wheel is the adjusting pin in the manual. It was seized and I didnt want to go near it.
The cam also appeared to be at its best setting for the drums to be at their closest.

I have bitten the bullet, removed the lever and applied some heat to it then a quick hit of CRC.

It has come free, so I will play with it tomorrow night and see how it goes.

I realise this sounds bit dumb, but my logic was "I didnt touch that" so if it worked before I took the truck to bits, the problem must lie in the components I have altered.

We will find out!!

Ganmain Tony · #**144** 27-09-18, 13:38

OK so... anchor pins are where they are supposed to be.
Eccentric cams where they are supposed to be.
Handbrake lever and eccentric behind it have been set up correctly

The cable is simply not long enough (AS IT HAS COME OUT OF THE BOX)

A solution is... to slice a section of the outer part (ie that the cable slides through) at one end.

Probably the end that slides into the backing plate. This will enable the cable to attach to the hand brake lever without starting to pull it, which starts to move the shoes onto the drum.

Suggestions welcome

Grant Bowker · #**145** 27-09-18, 14:17

Questions:
Is it a NOS cable or a modern "will fit" part? It's worth noting that F15 is listed as using *C101W-2275 cables and F15A *C01Q-2275A in case you ended up with the "wrong" part. I don't know the difference between the two cables. LWD parts show a cable tagged with the "correct" part number https://www.lwdparts.com/product/cable-handbrake-f15/ They also list the F15A cable and might be willing to measure length differences (sheath and overall) if asked.
Is the cable fully seating in the holding bracket on the backing plate? (and at the other end?)
Would it be better to take some (but less) off both ends of the sheath? You see less rust than I do but it might prevent formation of a rust ridge in the backing plate bracket that could block future removal.

Jacques Reed · #**146** 28-09-18, 01:43

Quote:

Originally Posted by Grant Bowker

Questions:
Is it a NOS cable or a modern "will fit" part? It's worth noting that F15 is listed as using *C101W-2275 cables and F15A *C01Q-2275A in case you ended up with the "wrong" part. I don't know the difference between the two cables.

Hi Tony,

Following on from Grant's comments if there is a major difference in lengths between an F15 And an F15-A handbrake cable I can at least confirm what is the F15-A cable length which may be of help.

The outer conduit is 39-3/4" long and the inner cable is 52-1/4" long giving a difference in the two lengths of 12-1/2"

I am very sure these measurements are accurate as they came off two NOS cables I bought along with the NOS backing plates that they were attached to. I took these measurement a long time ago in case I ever had to replace a cable. They work perfectly on my F15-A (and will be even better when I bend up the clips from the dimensions and photos you supplied!)

Hope this may be of some help.

Cheers,

Grant Bowker · #**147** 28-09-18, 02:36

I don't normally like to cast doubt on field measurements of original parts....but....
Parts list F15A-01 gives a length of 51-3/4 for part *C01Q-2275A (cable-hand brake-assembly),
Parts list F15-01 doesn't give a length for *C101W-2275,
Neither manual gives alternate numbers for earlier or later production.
The same part numbers and length notes appear in the earlier parts lists that cover all models.
I'm puzzled as when I was shortening a pair of *C01Q-2275B cables (originally 86 inches long) to recreate *C01Q-2275A cables for the 15cwt GS trailer I thought the measurements needed to be nearer those Jacques gave than the "official" version.

Jacques Reed · #**148** 28-09-18, 03:59

Hi Grant,

I agree, field measurements can be misleading however it all depends on where you are taking the measurements from versus what the guy putting together the parts manual measures, or the second or third hand measurements he receives.

My measurements were taken from the ends of the outer conduit at the end of the larger diameter sleeves. In the case of the inner cable, the measurements were from the outer end of the ball to the end of the threaded rod on the equalizer side. If someone only measured the exposed cable a different result would be obtained.

The cables were NOS, perfect shape, never kinked, and I compared both cables and obtained the same results. When installed, everything worked perfectly as intended.

If you think about it, the only critical measurement is the difference between the inner cable and outer conduit. The conduit could be 2, 4, 6 inches longer but as long as the inner cable is 12-1/2" longer the system will work just fine.

The parts manual is a great source of info but as I have found out there are a number of inconsistencies throughout. Looks like you may have found the same thing in regard to the specified measurement with your trailer cables.

In using a parts manual, one must keep an open mind and accept that it may not be gospel.

Cheers,

Ganmain Tony · #**149** 28-09-18, 13:32

Grant and Jacques,

My sincere thanks to you both. Very, very helpful discussion.

I will have another crack tomorrow and get back with my findings.

Sent an email to LWD parts. Hopefully they will get back to me as well.

Jacques Reed · #**150** 29-09-18, 00:19

Hi Tony,

Glad to be of some help.

Just as a final thought on the subject; assuming 12-1/2" is the difference in the lengths for both F15 and F15-A cables the only other thing that could affect the cable pulling on the brake shoes would be the position of the Support- Brake Conduit, part Nos. 01T 2501 (right side) and 01T 2502 (left side) in the case of a F15-A. I am assuming the F15 truck uses the same part but that could be a wrong assumption.

If these are bent, or modified, the distance to the equalizer arms will be different to the designed length perhaps causing the inner cable to be "pulled" even when when the handbrake lever is fully off.

I have attached a photo of the setup of the handbrake equalizer and the conduit supports on my F15-A which may help you and others.

Cheers,