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#1
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Appears to be to tight on passenger side. NOS cables may stretch a bit over time but there is a bit more to it.
Can only be the adjusting pin in the emergency brake lever. I thought its current postion had the lever as far back as it goes but the shoes are hard on the drum. (Sigh) I'll have another go...tomorrow night.
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Pax Vobiscum.......may you eat three meals a day & have regular bowel movements. Last edited by Ganmain Tony; 25-09-18 at 23:24. Reason: stutter |
#2
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Maybe the anchor pins for the brake shoes need some adjustment?
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Film maker 42 FGT No8 (Aust) remains 42 FGT No9 (Aust) 42 F15 Keith Webb Macleod, Victoria Australia Also Canadian Military Pattern Vehicles group on Facebook https://www.facebook.com/groups/canadianmilitarypattern |
#3
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Hi Tony,
You probably know this, but that slotted wheel at the top of the shoes is also an adjustment for the distance between the shoes. There is an eccentric pin behind it which when the wheel is rotated moves the top of the shoes further in or out. This may also affect the shoes making contact with the drum even with the brake lever all the way off. Cheers,
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F15-A 1942 Battery Staff Jacques Reed |
#4
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Yes that slotted wheel is the adjusting pin in the manual. It was seized and I didnt want to go near it. The cam also appeared to be at its best setting for the drums to be at their closest. I have bitten the bullet, removed the lever and applied some heat to it then a quick hit of CRC. It has come free, so I will play with it tomorrow night and see how it goes. I realise this sounds bit dumb, but my logic was "I didnt touch that" so if it worked before I took the truck to bits, the problem must lie in the components I have altered. We will find out!!
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Pax Vobiscum.......may you eat three meals a day & have regular bowel movements. |
#5
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OK so... anchor pins are where they are supposed to be.
Eccentric cams where they are supposed to be. Handbrake lever and eccentric behind it have been set up correctly The cable is simply not long enough (AS IT HAS COME OUT OF THE BOX) A solution is... to slice a section of the outer part (ie that the cable slides through) at one end. Probably the end that slides into the backing plate. This will enable the cable to attach to the hand brake lever without starting to pull it, which starts to move the shoes onto the drum. Suggestions welcome
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Pax Vobiscum.......may you eat three meals a day & have regular bowel movements. |
#6
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Questions:
Is it a NOS cable or a modern "will fit" part? It's worth noting that F15 is listed as using *C101W-2275 cables and F15A *C01Q-2275A in case you ended up with the "wrong" part. I don't know the difference between the two cables. LWD parts show a cable tagged with the "correct" part number https://www.lwdparts.com/product/cable-handbrake-f15/ They also list the F15A cable and might be willing to measure length differences (sheath and overall) if asked. Is the cable fully seating in the holding bracket on the backing plate? (and at the other end?) Would it be better to take some (but less) off both ends of the sheath? You see less rust than I do but it might prevent formation of a rust ridge in the backing plate bracket that could block future removal. |
#7
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Following on from Grant's comments if there is a major difference in lengths between an F15 And an F15-A handbrake cable I can at least confirm what is the F15-A cable length which may be of help. The outer conduit is 39-3/4" long and the inner cable is 52-1/4" long giving a difference in the two lengths of 12-1/2" I am very sure these measurements are accurate as they came off two NOS cables I bought along with the NOS backing plates that they were attached to. I took these measurement a long time ago in case I ever had to replace a cable. They work perfectly on my F15-A (and will be even better when I bend up the clips from the dimensions and photos you supplied!) Hope this may be of some help. Cheers,
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F15-A 1942 Battery Staff Jacques Reed |
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