How To: C15a Wire-3 restoration

[Bob Carriere]

Nice idea to relocate the pump.... the longer the cleaning fluid gets to sit in your 5 gallon bucket the more the dirt while settle and give you clean fluid the next time you use it as long as your sucker pipe is not too low in the bottom of the bucket.

If you ever intend to use the sheet metal shelf with the provided brackets....make sure you tack weld some 3/4 in. angle on the underside of the shelf otherwise it will bend and sag first time you use it.

On the minus side, at -25 C the cleaning liquid really really gets cold on your hands.....and cold fluid does not clean good....... on certain pieces, i.e. drums, a rinse in gasoline will leave a drier surface. I collect the old gasoline fluid and let it settle in windshield containers..... pour off the top 80% for re use.

All and I mean all combustible fluid, engine oil, tranny oil, parts cleaning fluid, skunky old gasoline, paint thinner, axle oil, gets saved in Lucifer,s bladder and the goo gets recycle in Lucifer for added heat.

Stay warm Jordan!!!!

[Mike Cecil]

Jordan,

Have you balanced the inflow through the nozzle with the outflow to the holding bucket, or are you just pumping from the holding bucket until it is empty? Can't see from the image.

If you have created a complete circuit where inflow = outflow, then you can use a two bucket system to settle the used liquid before re-using it. Outflow into bucket 1 where the larger sediment settles out to the bottom. Bucket 1 connects to bucket 2 via an overflow pipe near the top edge, with a baffle around the overflow pipe inlet. Pump to the nozzle draws liquid from bucket 2. It means you also have twice as much cleaning liquid in the system.

Just a thought.

Mike

[Jordan Baker]

The parts washer is working really well. I thought about adding a magnetic heater to the bottom of the bin but I found them expensive. Plus I’d figured I try it out as it. So far it works well. For the drain I do have a quarter turn valve on it so I can regulate the drain flow into the bucket. Right now I find a lot of the sediment settles into the large main bin and doesn’t drain down into the bucket. So I’m trying out today to fill the yellow bin up and let it sit for a few days. Then drain the fluid into the bucket leaving most of the residue in the yellow bin. Followed up by some paper wipe it all up.

Anyway back onto the truck. The front left hub was completely degreased then sandblasted along with some of the steering components. The small internal bits were simple soaked in the cleaner and will be good to go again. It’s amazing just how much sand gets into everything from the initial sandblasting and why it’s important to take it all apart and clean.

Another find was a fault in one of the bolts that hold the knuckle bearing cap in place. I saw the small crack in the side of the head. However the crack down the length never showed up until I sandblasted it. The crack was still weeping some of the parts cleaner and showed up very well.

[David Herbert]

Jordan,
You have changed a rather naff DIY grade piece of kit into something vastly better, well done !

Mike,
Your two bucket scheme is an excellent idea, especially if the buckets were covered to reduce evaporation and stop things falling in / spillage.

Personally I use a bucket of petrol or for big items, scrub with kerosene (heating oil in the UK) and then hose with lots of water. This also kills weeds in the yard so doing two jobs but obviously this is not very safe / PC nowadays.

David

[Bob Carriere]

Cracks really stand out....even micro hair cracks..... found cracks in the steering arm of the steering box....... not visible until the wash parts had surface dried then where heated up....then the kerosene seeped out....... steering arm has now been replaced.

Magnetic heaters are sometimes found in loose parts at flea market....$40 at PA is a bit much.

Cheers

[Jordan Baker]

The front drums and brake pad shoes were dropped off at the shop a few days ago for re-lining and removing the groves from the drums.

In the meantime I removed the tie rod after a bit of work. The ends have been taken apart and eventually the rod itself will be blasted and painted. One thing I have noticed is that I seem to be missing one of the large coiled springs for the tie rod. Now I have to try and find one. Does anyone know if it crosses over to another GM part from the period?

[Bob Carriere]

... you have the early ones that can be taken apart. I have only seen one set and mine are slightly different. I did rebuild mine.... salvage parts from a spare axle and make yourself thick leather washers to keep the grease in. If you can't find a spring will send you one.

The most late popular ball joints are sealed units........ make sure your tie rod is not bent....... I had one straight one from 4 axles.......

Do not sand blast the moving parts where they rub steel on steel. I used very thick grease intended for open gears in mine to negate any wear.

Enjoy the mess.

Do you have a cotter pin on the bottom..... can I see the rest of the body of the tie rod???



PSSSSS I bobbed somewhere.......