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#1
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I wonder when and where the solid tie rod ends came into the scene......
Got your PM with your address will try to mail it tomorrow. Not due for Grimsby until mid March. The spring is used with NO warrantee so no charge. If we meet at the OMVA in the Spring will have a beer. Cheers
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Bob Carriere....B.T.B C15a Cab 11 Hammond, Ontario Canada |
#2
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Thanks. Love the MLU community. No warranty....no worries I’ll just take it to my nearest GM dealership and berate the parts counter guy until he produces one from the back.
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Jordan Baker RHLI Museum, Otter LRC C15A-Wire3, 1944 Willys MB, 1942 10cwt Canadian trailer |
#3
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Going to the PO to mail.........
Had to dig out the axle from the snow but the tie rod nut came off easy..... 3 other axles have no spring????? Did not even wash them..... Cheers
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Bob Carriere....B.T.B C15a Cab 11 Hammond, Ontario Canada |
#4
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Spent the morning in the shop today. It was finally warmish enough to go out and not have freezing cold tools. Anyway I managed to make up the fromt brake lines. I was using the original hoses to make sure all the new lines match up just fine. Tomorrow’s plan is to work on the rear lines.
One question.... is the long line that goes from the master cylinder to the back all one piece? The ones I pulled off the truck were two but I believe they were made up at some point from off the shelf premade ones.
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Jordan Baker RHLI Museum, Otter LRC C15A-Wire3, 1944 Willys MB, 1942 10cwt Canadian trailer |
#5
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......found near impossible to do in one piece using SS....so I cut and installed a joint after the t case cross member.
Bob C.
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Bob Carriere....B.T.B C15a Cab 11 Hammond, Ontario Canada |
#6
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To amplify Bob's comments on stainless, we were using line that came straight. We've since found SS in coils that was easier to form (nowhere near cooked spaghetti nor like old dry spaghetti). Straighten from the coil as you go, but then you are forming the curves on the fly and would have to do the flares (at least some of them) on the truck (and stainless doesn't always flare nicely, particularly with cheap tools). I did the 15cwt trailer with copper-nickel line and it did form nicely to follow the frame contour, through cross-members and flare on the trailer
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#7
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Personally, I think stainless is a bit of an extravagance. Regular bundy line will outlast most of us.
I have been lucky in that I have found a couple of the kent-moore J8051 double flaring kits at surplus stores over the years. They would be very expensive to buy at retail, and do a fantastic job of brakelines and fuel lines. They were the standard in all the military shops when I was younger, but now with the metric lines, they have kind of fallen out of favour. |
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