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#1
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....always enjoying your progress and reading your email......fights cabin fever.
may be hard to obtain but are there no chemicals that you can mix to slow down the setting time.......? ...or adversely since most sets by temperature....can you refrigerate the bulk mix to give you a longer time to pour all at once.......... ....can you rig up a vibrator to help the mix flow into crevasses and get rid of possible air bubbles...... .... not sure of your mix but it is common for woodworkers to heat up the mold and total mix to allow air bubble to rise from the mix.... Tilting that 65 pound bucket will be an exercise in itself....... Bob C.
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Bob Carriere....B.T.B C15a Cab 11 Hammond, Ontario Canada |
#2
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Jon, can you explain how you mold works please (all the many gaps at the bottom) Thank you in advance.
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Bluebell Carrier Armoured O.P. No1 Mk3 W. T84991 Carrier Bren No2.Mk.I. NewZealand Railways. NZR.6. Dodge WC55. 37mm Gun Motor Carriage M6 Jeep Mb #135668 So many questions.... |
#3
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Lynn, The gaps around the bottom of the mould as superfluous to requirements, the vertical pieces of steel that form them, are only there to retain the flat strip that forms the outer face of the tyre in place and at the correct angle. These vertical pieces have been machined at an angle of 5 degrees on their top face which is the correct angle for said face. The thin metal sheet, that gets wrapped around the mould and forms the outside diameter of the tyre, is held in place by long jubilee clips. One at the bottom of the mould, that seals on the area shown on the picture below (marked with a red arrow) and one at the top the seals around the top cover. The sealing area is pretty thin but as it has been machined I am confident that it will form a good seal. I hope that it explains it or at least my theory. Jon DSC06464 (2)_LI.jpg DSC06468.jpg
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1950 Land Rover series 1 1967 Land Rover series 2A LWB 1986 Land Rover series 3 SWB 1938 DKW SB200 1944 DKW NZ350-1 1967 Ural K750 sidecar outfit 1944 VW Kubelwagen KDF82 1942 Steyr 1500A 1944 Morris C8A 1943 Chevrolet CMP8A HUP? 194? Bedford QL |
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From Bob's post ....
"Tilting that 65 pound bucket will be an exercise in itself......." Apparently I misunderstood. I'll delete the misleading entry. Mike |
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It's no problem, I thought it was my fault. Hopefully these two pictures show the angle of the face formed by the vertical pillars. Jon
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1950 Land Rover series 1 1967 Land Rover series 2A LWB 1986 Land Rover series 3 SWB 1938 DKW SB200 1944 DKW NZ350-1 1967 Ural K750 sidecar outfit 1944 VW Kubelwagen KDF82 1942 Steyr 1500A 1944 Morris C8A 1943 Chevrolet CMP8A HUP? 194? Bedford QL |
#6
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Thanks Bob, I think that I am going to need all the advice that I can get on this one.
Evening All, I thought that as I was making moulds, I might as well make the mould for the suspension arm radius bump stops.
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1950 Land Rover series 1 1967 Land Rover series 2A LWB 1986 Land Rover series 3 SWB 1938 DKW SB200 1944 DKW NZ350-1 1967 Ural K750 sidecar outfit 1944 VW Kubelwagen KDF82 1942 Steyr 1500A 1944 Morris C8A 1943 Chevrolet CMP8A HUP? 194? Bedford QL |
#7
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The 7 larger holes are there to allow the polyurethane to coat both sides of the steel retention bracket and bond through the holes. Hopefully it will work, tomorrow morning I shall find out if it has.
Jon
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1950 Land Rover series 1 1967 Land Rover series 2A LWB 1986 Land Rover series 3 SWB 1938 DKW SB200 1944 DKW NZ350-1 1967 Ural K750 sidecar outfit 1944 VW Kubelwagen KDF82 1942 Steyr 1500A 1944 Morris C8A 1943 Chevrolet CMP8A HUP? 194? Bedford QL |
#8
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Is there much off gassing from those items as they cure, Jon? Will your shop end up being mouse free for a while?
David |
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