CMP Ford F60S

[RichCam]

On and off, I have been working on the F60S over the winter. To date, I have replaced the 6V battery, added a battery bracket, rewired power to the starter, relocated the Starter Motor Relay from the frame channel (that is a nasty place to get at) to under the driver seat against the vertical mudguard. New wires have been run up to the dash for the starter button and I am know working my way through the ignition system. I am going to install an ignition key. Engine turns over with the starter, I can get spark from the coil but I am now into the guts of the points, condenser and spark plug wires. I will post pictures shortly.

[RichCam]

In order to make a roadworthy F60S LSVW, I need to have some functional instruments and a working speedometer. I have taken out the dash and removed the instrument cluster. It is now on its way to Cushman Speedometer Repair in Wichita to get rebuilt. Unfortunately, this truck never had an operating speedometer. There isn't a cable and there isn't a gear case housing for the cable to connect to. If anyone knows, please advise me where to look on either the transfer case (large without PTO) or transmission as to where a gear case housing might be located or should be mounted. Cheers!

[Jordan Baker]

Richard

The red circled parts are for a speedometer cable hook up.

[RichCam]

Jordan, thank you very much for clarifying where to look on the transfer case. With 80 years of grim, grease and muck, you have prevented me from just lying there on my back, aimlessly looking up, wondering "where in the *&^% is it?". Here is 1721 and 17277 scraped off and wire brushed. Further cleaning will commence once I get back to that area with a new speedo cable.

[RichCam]

I swapped out the older dual 6V batteries for a new 6V battery and fashioned a battery bracket to hold it in place. Added a battery (positive ground) disconnect but I need to paint that knob red. Starter solenoid is now more accessible from the driver's side step. Took the voltage regulator, ignition resistor and circuit breaker out of the dash, cleaned out dust, dirt and cobwebs, sanded the contacts, double checked continuity with a meter and reassembled. I am adding an ignition key into the coil circuit so we have a bit of security. New wires are being run from the starter solenoid to the cab terminal strip and from there to the voltage regulator, key, ignition resistor and then over to the coil. Push button for starter solenoid is now functional. Distributor cap is off, inspecting points, condenser, coil wire and spark plug wires. Will look at setting up timing to make sure I have proper spark at the correct plug. More next week!

[RichCam]

Guys, do you know if this is a 6V positive ground Trumpet Horn? If not, can it be used instead? As well, does anyone have a service manual or schematic (feel free to post or PM me) for the horn so I can give it a go and if it works, stick it into the F-60S? As always, comments, opinions and answers are always appreciated! Cheers, Richard

[Jacques Reed]

Hi Richard,

There is not much info on the horn that I have found. Nothing in the Maintenance Manual. Your internals looks similar to my original Cab 13 horn. There is a condenser fitted to prevent arcing at the make and break contact similar to the condenser used at the points.

The only adjustments you can make is to move the two nuts so that the contacts open and close rapidly to vibrate the diaphragm. The outer one is just a jam nut to prevent the inner nut from moving.
From memory I think you can also adjust the position of the laminated bar relative to the coil. It must not touch coil but not so far away as to not be pulled by the coil.

Basically if there is no sound, the diaphragm is not vibrating so move the inner nut until it does then lock it with the outer one. It is Science 101 basically- How a doorbell works, but a diaphragm substituted for a striker.
If no sound after doing that then perhaps the coil is burnt out or the laminate bar needs to be moved. Polarity should not matter.
Hope this helps.