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  #1  
Old 08-07-11, 10:59
Private_collector's Avatar
Private_collector Private_collector is offline
Tony Baker
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Wide Bay, QLD, Australia.
Posts: 1,819
Default Today

Tyres bought
P7080023.jpg P7080024.jpg

Wheels blasted & etch primed
P7080027.jpg

Lower engine hatch blasted & repaired
P7080028.jpg

Grille blasted, following previous reworking of mesh.
P7080029.jpg
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Ford CMP, 115" WB,1942 (Under Restoration...still)
Medium sized, half fake, artillery piece project. (The 1/4 Pounder)
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  #2  
Old 24-07-11, 10:40
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Private_collector Private_collector is offline
Tony Baker
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Wide Bay, QLD, Australia.
Posts: 1,819
Default Things now happening......at last.

Spent 60min masking my trailer, ready to paint insides of wheel halves.
P7240042.jpg
Wanted to do the insides first to test paint spraying technique and finish. Learnt many years ago, you always do the bits you don't see first when spraying in 'unfamiliar' territory.
P7240043.jpg
Lovelly shiny finish isn't it? Pity it's bloody well meant to be almost flat finish!!!
P7240044.jpg
I have had the same problem that Lloyd McCarthy had encountered with his Cab 12, Gun Tractor. Being that the flattening base for mixing with gloss paint does not provide much flattening when used at specified strength of 5%. Before I attempt the outside of the wheels, I will ring Lloyd for his final strength of base. His truck looked sooo good, and has the precise look I want. Lloyd is a perfectionist.

Fellow MLU'er, Andy Cusworth dropped by this afternoon, while in the area for a local historical Steam Rally. He helped me to get the final two wheel nuts loose and the wheels will be coming off in near future while axles are worked on. Rear first. I never had any hope of removing the stuck nuts before today, because only last night did I consider the possibility of studs being replaced with wrong thread direction. I checked today......and yep......thats whats been done, so I'm very glad I didn't force the issue and wind up with busted threads. If I end up using this rear axle (I have another, good one) I will write to Dirk at LWD and have him send replacements.

I couldn't resist threading the 'danger' nuts on, just to admire the two colors together!
P7240047.jpg

Has anyone realised what color the green I chose is?

The answer is in one of the photos ;-)
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Ford CMP, 115" WB,1942 (Under Restoration...still)
Medium sized, half fake, artillery piece project. (The 1/4 Pounder)

Last edited by Private_collector; 24-07-11 at 10:44. Reason: stuffed up!
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  #3  
Old 24-07-11, 12:24
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Andy Cusworth Andy Cusworth is offline
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Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Brisbane Qld
Posts: 88
Default

Tony,

I have to say your work is second to none, the parts you have done look great mate !
and no i can't find the bloody paint name anywhere

or is it called Shed Green ????
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  #4  
Old 25-07-11, 03:43
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Bob Moseley (RIP) Bob Moseley (RIP) is offline
RIP
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Adelaide, South Australia
Posts: 2,620
Default Green Paint

Hi Tony - I hope you are not going to stay with that green as the instrument panel I am doing for you will be finished in good old Khaki Green No.3.

Bob
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Ford F15 - unrestored
Ford F15A X 2 - unrestored
Website owner - salesmanbob.com

Last edited by Bob Moseley (RIP); 25-07-11 at 03:44. Reason: Forgot the "i" on Khaki
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  #5  
Old 25-07-11, 12:10
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Private_collector Private_collector is offline
Tony Baker
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Wide Bay, QLD, Australia.
Posts: 1,819
Default Bob

That's the color I will be using. It is actually a bit darker in real life. Also, my local automotive paint shop has no vintage military formulae and expressed no interest in rectifying the issue. They will create from formula containing their tinters (Protec variety) if formula is supplied to them. This color is a standard mix.

Why did you expect Khaki Green 3?

I chose this color because its a green which I find appealing and it is easily obtained in a number of forms. It is a standard colorbond color which can be picked up from any hardware or paint store, and is available pre-made in acrylic & enamel. I can simply buy a spray can if needing to touch-up anywhere other than on main panels.

Some restorers choose to debate and argue which color is the 'right' one for their vehicles, and if historical accuracy is the desire, that debate is certainly warranted, but that particular aspect of the build does not interest me. It's the physical quality that I will be concentrating on. Color is my choice. After all, If there is a 'right' color for any particular type of vehicle or theatre, then there must be an awful lot of paint colors seen that are wrong.

You can supply the dash in primer if you wish, or spray with Cottage Green Colorbond color, from local paint shop or hardware. Acrylic preferred as I can flatten easily later without causing damage. It's your call!
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Ford CMP, 115" WB,1942 (Under Restoration...still)
Medium sized, half fake, artillery piece project. (The 1/4 Pounder)
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  #6  
Old 25-07-11, 12:22
Keith Webb's Avatar
Keith Webb Keith Webb is offline
Film maker, CMP addict
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: HIGHTON VIC
Posts: 8,218
Default The clue

Quote:
Has anyone realised what color the green I chose is?

The answer is in one of the photos ;-)

Is this the answer to the cryptic clue Tony?


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42 FGT No8 (Aust) remains
42 FGT No9 (Aust)
42 F15
Keith Webb
Macleod, Victoria Australia
Also Canadian Military Pattern Vehicles group on Facebook
https://www.facebook.com/groups/canadianmilitarypattern
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  #7  
Old 25-07-11, 12:38
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colin jones colin jones is offline
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Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Adelaide
Posts: 1,810
Default

His truck, his choice.
Colin.
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