Ford Blitz Restoration/Rebuild

[Private_collector]

All the remaining brake lines are now formed and ready for having the ends flared. I had no trouble making the front line in one piece, but was very surprised to find that I could not do the rear without having a join. It was impossible to have the rear pipe as I wanted without needing to bend it horribly getting it out of the frame again. I tried a number of ways, but always had to spend a lot of time re-straightening the tube. Hard to do with the line out of chassis, and virtually impossible to get it straight once it had been fed back in again. The join will be just rear of the transfer case cross member.

I found a suitable bracket for the front end, where the pipe joins flexible hose. It's still very rusty right now. When I went to use the compressor I found it laboring to turn over, so shut it down before it blew up. Off to the compressor repair people again, I guess. In the meantime, no sandblasting at home .

I made a rear pipe bracket, as per photos Jacques had posted, but realised I would need to drill another hole through the chassis wall to attach it to, so I made one that would use one of the holes already existing in the rail. The white color is etch primer, and the hose in the photo is one of my front axle to brake cylinder ones. I'm yet to buy the ones going from frame to axles.

[Ryan]

Reading and watching with awe as usual Tony.
Such an excellent thread.
Ryan

[Bob Carriere]

Hi Tony

Yes it is near impossible to do the full lenght of the frame even on a short C15a without having a union joint somewhere. Make sure you get yourself, buy or borrow, a good flaring tool...... they will save you money on wasted brake lines and give you better overall results...... and good non leaking brakes are cheap insurance.

We have found at the barnt hat it is usually preferrable to reproduce a bracket rather than try to clean it up.... make a few extras they are good bargaining chips...... and tag and keep the original for reference.

Enjoy reading and watching your progress.

Bob C.

[Private_collector]

G'day Bob,

I just make the brake pipes. I get the flaring done by a local hydraulics shop. I have a flaring tool, but as you say, best to be certain of quality workmanship. My flaring tool will be used for fuel lines only.

When I made the brake lines, I allowed a little extra length in case even the professionals work is not good enough and has to be redone.

I did have a guy that was supposed to be doing all the brake work, including pipes, hoses, and all connections, but he was to get back to me about a particular part I was wanting, and I didn't hear from him again! I don't reward unreliability.

Cheers,

[Jacques Reed]

Originally Posted by Bob Carriere

Hi Tony
Yes it is near impossible to do the full lenght of the frame even on a short C15a without having a union joint somewhere.

Hi Tony,

Going up to Industrial Fittings Pty Ltd tomorrow morning to get a joiner for my front and rear chassis brake lines in view of them seeming to be original fitment and the difficulty I found, too, of bending and flaring a one piece line in-situ for the rear chassis brake line. Front one not quite such a problem but still will use a joiner as per your diagram.

While I am there do you want me to pick you up any?

Cheers,

[Private_collector]

Oooooh, Yes please!

Awfully decent of you. I'll take two if that's OK. You never know when you need a spare/replacement.

Thanks for that

Am awaiting a reply from Auto Surplus regarding the front suspension bolts etc.. I'll let you know what they say when I hear from them. Hope they have the parts. Macs might, but i'm still traumatised from the last enquiry effort.

[Bob Carriere]

When you have finally cut and shaped/bent the line to perfection then you flare the end....................... with a perfection flare.....





.................................................. ........ and you realize you did not install the coupling before flaring !!!!!

Now who has not done that.? Honestly......

...and at time twice in a row...... and now the line is too short ..guilty as charged your honor.

I remember Rob going out the barn at -20 with a piece of coat hanger to make a model then come back in to warm up....cut..bend...shape.... go back outside at -20 to try it...... come back to flare it inside the barn....warm up ...go back outside....... then the word that came from the outside could melt the snow..... it's too short.....

Bob

[Private_collector]

Is part of the reason why I was happy to give that task to someone else.

In fact, the last of the brake lines were given to hydraulic shop this morning. Will go get them in 30min or so.

Did add an extra 50mm to each and every line, to allow for a once-only mistake such as you described, Bob!

Also saw my upholstery guys and asked them to order a couple of metres of same canvas used for the side curtain, for me to cut the pieces to make mud flaps, side light covers, and the bag behind the seats fo4 door tops to go into.

[Private_collector]

Well bugger me! Got the frame brake lines back from the hydraulic shop this afternoon, and did a tentative fit when I got home.

You wouldn't bloody well believe it. You may recall me mentioning that I allowed a slight bit of extra length with the pipes, as a 'just in case' one or more pipes required a flare to be cut off due to poor form? Guess what that equates to when they do the damn lot absolutely perfectly? Yep, one is too long, and will require shortening. As close as I can tell, and this is a guestimate until I get a joining piece that Jacques kindly offered to pickup for me, I will need to remove a further 2cm, possibly even more.

You cant win. If you dont allow for a 'visit from Mr Cockup', then you get caught short, literally in this case, and if you try to outsmart the berks of this world, you end up getting one of the few people that is actually good at their job.

Once I know the exact amount to be removed, I'll take that pipe (rear most one) back for an adjustment. I will be sure to tell them why too. At least they will get a kick out of the story.

to the guys at Wide Bay Hydraulics!

Needing to get one pipe flare done again, is neither a huge deal, nor a huge cost. Makes for an amusing anecdote too.

[Jacques Reed]

Hi Tony,

Glad to see I am not the only one who has to do things twice to get it right.
My wife and I call ourselves Mr. and Mrs. "Twotrips". Usually when you buy something you have to go back to the shop a second time for something defective, omitted etc. In your case it was something actually correct!
It seems to have permeated my hobby too!

As for me doing my brake lines twice as per previous reply in this thread I am very grateful for the replies and photos here. Could have save myself a bit of work. Least I held off doing the rear chassis line so it will only be done once, hopefully.
I re-read the F15A Spare Parts List brake section and have attached a scan here on the brake lines. Some interesting points:

Seems to confirm that at one stage there was a separate line to each side of the front axle like the F15 even on the F15A 4 x 4 version. Parts no CO1QF 2263 and CO1QF 2264. I would assume the larger models of CMP's had the same arrangement.
They were then replace by 91A 2269 (a roll of Bundy tubing) and fabricated in the field.
Note the quote "Used with brake tubing attached to axle housing- new location"
So everyone debating three or four flexible lines to the front axle is correct.

Had I read it more carefully also the lengths of CO1Q 2267 = 46-7/16" and CO1Q 2268 = 19-11/16" might have tipped me off that my brake lines did not follow the original path on the rear axle. Oh well, as my Dad used to say "By the time you are dead you know everything!"
Another interesting point is Part CO1Q 2070: Union- inverted, that you mentioned, Tony, and showed in the diagram does not appear in the F15A brake line diagrams but does appear in the parts list for it. This is not uncommon though with the parts lists I have found.

Now if I can ask Keith, or anyone else here for a good close-up photo and/or dimensions of the brake line clip under the rear springs I think I will have all the info I need to re-do the rear diff lines.

P.S. it only cost me $5 for a 1.8m offcut of Bundy tube at Industrial Fittings when I picked up the joiners so it's worth correcting the mistake on the rear axle. All I lose is a bit of time.

Cheers

[Tony Wheeler]

Originally Posted by Jacques Reed

Now if I can ask Keith, or anyone else here for a good close-up photo and/or dimensions of the brake line clip under the rear springs I think I will have all the info I need to re-do the rear diff lines. Cheers

Hi Jacques,

It seems there were two different types of clip used. The type seen in the first two pics appears to be p/n 2081, which is also used at several other points to secure the brake line to the chassis, as shown in the maintenance manual diagram (Fig. 1 on page E0). It's listed as "Clip, brake pipe, 1 1/8" long (old design)". As you can see in the photo the brake line itself has been dragged out from under the clip, bending it back in the process.

The type seen in the third and fourth pics wraps around the brake line and is thus more secure. I'll post some pics with dimensions in case you want to fabricate this one.

[Keith Webb]

Nice work Tony, I'm still just near Loch Ard Gorge so a long way from my FGT. Thanks for the pics!

[Tony Wheeler]

As can be seen from the pics the wrap around clip is made from a 3" length of 5/8" strap (appears to be 16 gauge) with holes stamped either end for the 1/4" bolt.

The other clip is 1 1/8" long, which would seem to confirm it as p/n 2081. This part may be readily available (although it's rather less suitable IMO and the hole is way oversize).

Anyway I trust that's of some help Jacques. BTW my back seems to be on the mend at last (touch wood!) so I'll give you a ring to arrange a blitz day soon if you're up for it.

Cheers,
Tony

[Tony Wheeler]

Phil Waterman covers this topic with the relevant service bulletins here: http://www.canadianmilitarypattern.c...ailphotos.html

[Phil Waterman]

Originally Posted by Tony Wheeler

Phil Waterman covers this topic with the relevant service bulletins here: http://www.canadianmilitarypattern.c...ailphotos.html

Hi Tony

The service bulletins are Chevrolet CMP, but they may also have been in response to a general problem. The Chevy early Pat 13 had a hard brake line running around the front of the truck basically under the radiator mount and it is virtually impossible to work on with the engine in place. The later routing greatly simplified repair. In that light it might also have been an issue on Fords.

Cheers Phil

[Jacques Reed]

Originally Posted by Tony Wheeler

As can be seen from the pics the wrap around clip is made from a 3" length of 5/8" strap (appears to be 16 gauge) with holes stamped either end for the 1/4" bolt.

The other clip is 1 1/8" long, which would seem to confirm it as p/n 2081. This part may be readily available (although it's rather less suitable IMO and the hole is way oversize).

Anyway I trust that's of some help Jacques. BTW my back seems to be on the mend at last (touch wood!) so I'll give you a ring to arrange a blitz day soon if you're up for it.

Cheers,
Tony

Hi Tony,

Many thanks for that info and photo. You've been a great help again.
Was just thinking recently I better contact you in the New near too to have a Blitz day at your place and return that long overdue battery holder to the "library". Hope the fine isn't large!
Least it is now dry for moving Blitzes in paddocks. Hard to believe just two months ago how wet it was.
Glad to hear the back is on the mend and look forward in the next few weeks to catching up.

[Private_collector]

Got the rear springs off my parts donor truck on Sunday. While each set had the overrider leaves, they weren't directly bolted to the main stack. That truck didn't have the overrider bump brackets when I bought it, but I think there is a full set amongst the parts that came with the truck being restored. The resto. truck does not have the holes drilled in the chassis, to take the brackets. Not counting the overrider, the main leaf set contains 10 leaves per side. There are 4 each in the other stacks. The U bolts and nuts came undone (eventually) without damage, but as we have a springworks in town, I hope to buy a new set for the final reassembly. The shackle pins/bolts were in a surprisingly good condition. I could probably have use some or all of these again, but you can't beat brand new. A full set of those, and locking pins are en route from USA.

Two packets of wiring clips arrived yesterday. These were to replace the previously bought ones, which of course, were immediately discovered once the order was placed for the second time. Total number of clips on hand is now approx 42! I should have sufficient quantity to place a clip every 3 inches, and still run the wiring around the truck a dozen times. The clips have a pair of nasty little teeth on the under side. I'm thinking of the best way to install these without scratching the paint badly. I have a cunning plan!

If I get the time today, I will call Vintage Wiring down south, to order a new wiring loom. They carry a pattern for F60S, but as mine is now a bit more 'S' than it once was, we should be able to get correct length for rear wiring, by agreeing on a reference point that I can then measure aft from. Also want them to include provision for a second brake light. I know it originally had just the one, but having one on each side might offer a little more safety from being rear ended. There's a lot of moron drivers out there. I don't want them writing off their car by scratching the paint off my pintle.

[Private_collector]

New wiring harness ordered late last week. You know when you speak to someone, maybe even just a brief conversation, and you almost instantly get the impression that here is somebody that knows their stuff? That's the feeling I got from the fellow at Vintage Wiring Harness, in Victoria: http://www.vinwire.com.au/index.htm I have no doubt that I will be happy with their product.

I was reviewing some past photos showing the rear axle I rebuilt, showing it when I first got it home, and with the springs still attached. There are definately more leaves to the main spring stacks, and the overriders are different to those I removed from parts vehicle last weekend. The bad news is that the ones I know to be correct, have been entirely disassembled some time ago. I'll look them over today, but my first thoughts are that these will be the ones I end up using. Going to be a bugger of a job. Each leaf will need to be cleaned, blasted and painted individually.

Should have had the last two rear spring hangers and swings painted yesterday, but paint shop failed to order the 4L can of paint I asked for prior in late December. Bet that doesn't happen again in the future!

[Private_collector]

Does anyone have any practical experience in successfully seperating the two main panels of the roof assembly on a cab13?

I have three roof assemblies. One is quite good, and it will be kept intact for my vehicle. The other two are less usefull. One has a good upper panel, the other one is damaged and not economically repairable. My thoughts are to remove the roof panel from one, without trying to salvage rear lower part, and graft it to the other ones lower panel, which can be repaired.

If the spot welds are able to be seen, I can drill them out, but I don't think it will be that straight forward. Also, the L shaped stiffening plate at rear upper corner of side window opening could complicate things considerably.

Has this been done in the past, and if so, what is the procedure for the job?

Photos to follow tonight, I hope.

[Phil Waterman]

Hi Tony

The shore answer is yes it has been done, but now I've got to remember how I did it or find the photos.

But to be sure we're talking about the same thing, you are asking about removing the rear skin of the standard Pat 13 cab assembly correct? Purpose to make up one good roof from two or three donors?

On my Pat 13 C60S 1942 the rear of the cab had rusted out all the way around where it was backed by the lower angle iron that forms the bolting surface. So I removed it and replaced it with new sheet metal. As I remember it I did it as you suggest by drilling out all the spot welds, then using air chisel with the longest flattest blade slide between the layers.

But as I said I may have photos. I'll look.

Cheers Phil

[Private_collector]

But first,

Thanks Phil. You are correct. It's 'one for the price of 2' sort of thing. I took a good look at the one with best roof profile, and it is the one that will become the Sunshine Roof. The second roof is a suitable donor for rear window frame and possibly bugger-all else. I also have a third roof. It is OK to use as is, once cleaned up and panelbeaten a little, but that can wait for another time. I'm more interested in getting the hole cut through for the sunshine roof to go away for blasting, welding, etc.. I have a couple of metres of canvas on order. Should get it this week. Wasn't feeling best last weekend, so I sat down and did a lube job on the sewing machine I bought some weeks ago.

This morning (and afternoon) I did a job I have been avoiding for a long time. Rear springs. I have a good set of rear ones without overriders, from the 'organ donor'. All the clamps are intact. The main bolts are in good shape. The leaves are not rusted. Unfortunately the reason they are not rusted is because of an awful lot of pitch between all the leaves. Mmmmmm, pitch/tar/whatever........wat ho! Oh my god! Disgusting stuff to remove. Here's the steps:

Scrape all the edges and grooves with an old chisel.
Soak everything with petrol and remove what you can get at.
Go beserk with twisted wire cup on grinder. Spear several wire strands into legs etc...
Discover heaps of pitch still in grooves. Swear loudly and repeatedly.
Re-soak with petrol, and scrub grooves with wire brush.
Use compressed-air to clean MORE pitch from grooves, as it sprays everywhere. Clean black muck off hands.
Re-re-soak with petrol and remove yet more muck. Repeat previous step (and this one) x 3 times.
rub over with brillo pad and Marine-Clean (POR15) 5:1 mix.
Dry thoroughly with compressed-air and throw em in the car for blasting during the week.

Covered the bushes with an old pin in each side, and copious wraps of gaffer tape to stop grit getting in and damaging.

6 Hours for the pair. Couldn't bring myself to seperate the leaves. All the leaf clamps are 'Ford' stamped too!!

Before I cleaned the springs, I wanted to make sure they would actually fit the truck. Not in great shape this weeekend either, so I certainly wasn't gonna waste hours on something that won't work. I attached a 'should now be painted' (Grrrr) back hanger and swing. Presto. Great fit. The new shackle pins and lock bolts should be here by the end of the week, springs should be blasted and back by Friday, and paint WILL BE ready for me to have by then too. Provided I actually feel up to truck work next weekend, the only thing left to be done by end of next weekend, is the U bolts blasting and running a die down the threads,

[Private_collector]

My new set of rear spring bolts & lock pins arrived today from MacsAuto, U.S.A. They are a PERFECT fit. Won't be any rattles coming from the rear suspension, thats for sure. I am lucky to have found enough good bushes for rear springs to have a good tight set all round.

Hope both the part numbers are clearly visible in the above photos.

I'll slowly work my way through as many potential sources of irritating rattles or squeaks as I possibly can. That kind of noise drives me to distraction, and I must eliminate the noise.

Shackle bolts: $9.50ea
Lock pins: $1.10ea
Total part cost = $63.60
Shipping cost to Aust = $65.43

P.S: The grease nipple you see, is one I put on. The bolts don't come with those!

As usual, it costs more to get the parts here than it does to buy the bits!
Still worth it for peace of mind.

Went to a local brake shop today. They will be making a new set of flexible hoses. Roughly $40 each. The ones I have here, I bought some time ago, and I don't remember their country of origin, so I daren't trust them. Make good example to have ones made from though.

[Private_collector]

Does anyone have any information on this type of inspection light?

WWII maybe?

Anyhow, it's mine now, for $20!

[Phil Waterman]

Originally Posted by Private_collector

Attachment 54328 Attachment 54329 Attachment 54330
My new set of rear spring bolts & lock pins arrived today from MacsAuto, U.S.A. They are a PERFECT fit. Won't be any rattles coming from the rear suspension, thats for sure. I.....

Shackle bolts: $9.50ea
Lock pins: $1.10ea
Total part cost = $63.60
Shipping cost to Aust = $65.43

P.S: The grease nipple you see, is one I put on. The bolts don't come with those!
...

Hi Tony

Before you install them could you do us Chevy Nuts a favor and measure them. You may have found a source for us all.

Need length, OD, distance from end to center of the locking cross notch, approximate dept of the locking pin notch.

Cheers Phil

[Private_collector]

Will do!

I can start with length of 4.28" & OD of 1".

I know those measurements off by heart.

The rest i'll post this evening, when I get home.

[Phil Waterman]

Hi Tony

Thanks for that information they won't fit HUPs but now I will have to find my overhaul notes on pins for the C60S and C60L.


If anyone curious I have the HUP pin and bushing dimensions http://canadianmilitarypattern.com/H...ril%20Work.htm

I have hope that it will turn out that the pins you have found through MAC's will also fit the big Chevy CMPs.

Cheers Phil

[Bob Carriere]

Hi Phil

the Pins for the C15a are no longer available from suspension shops..... I had mine done...... was quoted $60 each.... had them done for $40 from drill rods in a rural machine shop...... then found that Dirk had them at LWD NOS and cheaper.......

The machine shop cost comes from using drill stock..... heating them to remove the temper.....drill, cut the bolt lock and tap for the grease fitting them re-temper.... hope they will alst longer than the 70 eyars old originals.

Bob

[Private_collector]

Follows are the dimensions of rear shackle bolt, as requested by Phil.

It's hard to hold caliper still while taking photo with other hand, so I have taken the measurement first, then tried to hold in the representative position......or close enough to know what the measurement refers to.........I hope.

Length.

O.D.

Distance of groove bed start from end of bolt.

Distance of groove bed end from end of bolt.

Groove total width.


Depth of the pin groove is 0.1185" below surface of the bolt, give or take a couple of thou.

Total width of the bevelled surface each side of the flat groove is 0.075"

Don't ask what the angle of groove bevel is, it's not 45 degree, but cannot find anything precise enough to measure accurately, and I am not learned in the ways of the force!

[Phil Waterman]

Hi Bob

I had to enlarge the pin grove in the pins I got instead of taking the hardening out of the pins, ground the groves larger. Took about and hour to do all the 6 pins. Can post details on cutting the groves if anybody needs it.

Cheers Phil

[Phil Waterman]

Hi Tony

Great detail on the measurements as the old saying goes 5 pictures worth 5000s words.

Cheers Phil