Ford Blitz Restoration/Rebuild

Private_collector · #1 23-03-13, 12:08

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bob McNeill

Tony All the wiring harness that Vintage have supplied to us for several vehicles have come with instruction sheets, and the best deal we got was to send "old harness " and they rebuilt it to new condition at about 1/2 cost, admittingly they were post 1960 vehicles but still cotton wrapped. highly reccomend.

Maybe I should clarify. A set of instructions was sent with the wiring. A photo of that is in my post of 1900hrs, yesterday, 4th pic. That information relates to the assembly of the individual components of the set into the complete wiring harness. Each wire package is labelled as to it's purpose. This can be seen in the 3rd photo of same post. Each individual wire is numbered. The number labels can be removed without problem or residue. Though i'll test that in practice, at a much later date!.

There was no possibility of me supplying an original harness. There was very little of the original one to salvage, and it was heavily caked in oil and mud. The new harness is reproduced from an original harness that the company obtained years ago. I have no fear that there will be errors, but should an issue arise, there is support from them to rectify. This is one of those times when I was glad to spend such a sum of money, in order to get the finish I want.

The information I need to find is the physical routing of the wires themselves, not how they go together. Vintage Wiring Harness has taken all the angst out of that.

Private_collector · #2 23-03-13, 12:26

Today was the farm clearing auction for my late friend, Paddy.
Auction day 1.jpg Auction day 2.jpg Auction day 3.jpg
There were several of the very incomplete CMPs included in the sale, but others were not included, and remained in there original locations around the paddocks. Probably because they were too far gone to be of ANY use. The three that were included are sorry wrecks that could provide some minor parts, but not a real lot. The exception to that rule is the doors, which are still quite restorable. I had left before the trucks came up for auction. It was so bloody hot there, we were melting, and no point hanging around for something I wasn't gonna bid on anyway. I'll phone Paddys brother in coming days to enquire of prices paid.
Auction day 4.jpg
This Morris Cowley was a vehicle Paddy intended to restore. So he said. Can't help but think that even if he were in good health, he may not have got it finished in one lifetime.

While wandering around, I noticed a Ford CMP front end that had the lifting attachment points on the wheel hubs. I need a set of these, so I hope I can do a deal for those before the remaining steel bits go to the scrap merchants. I fully expect that the plans are already made for the disposal of the remaining salvagable scrap.
Auction day, Harrier .jpg
On the way to Paddys farm you travel past this Harrier Jet, made almost entirely of corrigated iron sheeting. Made a point of taking a photo.

Private_collector · #3 23-03-13, 12:52

After leaving the farm sale, we went for a drive to Maryborough, and made a visit to the Military Museum there. Quite a good attraction. Small in size, but large in exhibits.
MMM 1.jpg MMM 3.jpg
I drooled over this Ferret last time I visited, and today just increased my desire to buy one some day. This one is in very good condition, inside & out.
MMM 4.jpg
Nice motorcycle!
MMM 01.jpg
I want to borrow this setup for my front yard.

MMM 5.jpg
These are the medals of Keith Payne, VC.

How that poor man must suffer on ANZAC Day, with all those to wear on his jacket. I assume the ones on display here are copies.

Private_collector · #4 23-03-13, 13:07

This wooden bust has the most amazing detail. You can't help but admire the craftsmanship of the carver.
MMM 6.jpg
The closer you look, the more incredible it gets!

MMM 7.jpg
Look at all the edges and seams on the tunic. See the collar pin behind the tie?
MMM 8.jpg
How's the realism of the pocket flap! Even the button under the sam browne has the appearance of being pushed into the tunic by the leather strap.
MMM 9.jpg MMM 91.jpg

Private_collector · #5 30-03-13, 12:05

I finally got back to disassembling the front end. Driver side steering end is off the axle/diff, but I have failed to pull the upper pivot pin out. Bottom one came away OK, but despite a number of approaches, top one wont budge. There is evidence of corrosion around the edge, so no secret why its firm. May call on the bearing shop in town. If I can lift the bloody thing into the car first! Both hubs are off. The wheel hub nuts were in perfect condition, not butchered by the dreaded cold chisel removal in past. So far, the bearings and cups I can see look to be in good shape. They will get replaced regardless, so long as replacements can be found. One part that I am worried about is the large grease seal that sits inside wheel hubs. Its about the biggest seal I have come across thus far. They are worn and cannot be trusted to do their job.

Driver side brake backing plate is welded, as I think I had previously stated. If I fail to remove the upper pivot pin, I may consider total replacement ot the entire assembly on that side. That will save me ages of work grinding ofr the backing plate.

Passenger side backing plate thankfully NOT welded, but I found something very interesting when I had gone over it with a bit of steel wool & petrol. One one side was stamped RF. I gather they are 'sided', so this should really say LF. Curious! The hub had the L stamped wheel nuts and bolts. Thought I had got the whole thing Bass Ackwards for a little while. Petrol fumes must have dulled the brain a bit.

Was informed of two sources for replacement felt seals for steering knuckle. Will order these on Tuesday. All going well, the sandblaster will be doing alright during next week too.

New wheel cylinders are sitting on my parts shelves. New front wheel brake hoses should arive in coming days. The brake shoes I have should be OK to use as is, but I recently bought a second set to send away for relining, in case I get picky. Probably will.

Transmission is now finished, with the exception of new grease hose for throwout shaft. I had enquired to Ajays in New Zealand, and they were out of stock at the time, but said they would contact their supplier and let me know if they could get any more. I was expecting an email by start of last week...............not heard from them yet, so I will continue to search until I get impatient and contact them myself. The new clutch shaft bushes were a super tight fit and driving them in caused slight deforming of one edge which was remedied with a slight honing. Clutch shaft is a perfect fit now. To think I nearly tried to get away with the original, sloppy ones.

The following is a list of replacement parts used on the trans rebuild:

Input bearing, MDG shaft
Output bearing, MDG shaft
Rear oil seal, main shaft
Throwout bearing
Throwout return spring
Pilot bearing
Clutch shaft bushes
Oil fill plug
Oil drain plug (magnetic)
1x selector rod detent spring
2x selector rod detent balls
Full set of gaskets
Gear lever lock pin
Reverse gear, lockout latch
Reverse gear lockout return spring
Gear knob
Fresh lock wire to selector forks and rear mount bolts.
New bolts, selector housing cover to gearbox
Grease delivery container, throwout assembly

And hopefully soon; new grease hose, throwout assembly

Bob Carriere · #6 31-03-13, 01:41

Hi Tony

Enjoy following your restoration.

ON the front pins that are hard to remove.... if memory serves me right there is fine thread hole on the centre..... find a suitable....odd size something like 7/16 fine thread and build yourself a puller using the other four bolt holes on the cap...... may need some heat to free it up.... but it will come out.

On the large front hub seal.... there are still being made for commercial application...... do not bother reading the part numbers.... a good bearing/seal shop will have access to a search engine on their computer and they will match dimension ID/OD. Last time I got some the part guy was apologetic for only having one in stock... the second one was there in 48 hours....... all for $19.95 each..... but will be more down under with shipping. Too bad they welded that backing plate... ridiculous really and will give you a headache.
Wonder if you will find stripped bolt holes to account to the welding.

Good luck.

Bob

Cameron Reed · #7 31-03-13, 03:50

Hi Tony
The seal I used in mine was a Chicago Rawhide no 58741, it was the closest my bearing man could come up with only difference was it is a little thinner,
I think it is 3/8" wide as against 1/2". Probaly worked better for me because the spindle was worn quite wide where the old leather seal ran and i could put the new one in a little deeper to be back on the good part on the spindle. They are a modern type twin lip rubber seal.

As for pulling the swivel housing pins out I just used a 1/2" socket with the id bigger than the pin dia and a 1/2" unf bolt (mine were tapped 1/2"nf, had to run a tap down them to clean them up) place socket over and screw bolt down into pin and continue to tighten. The thread is only short so with an assortment of washers and spacers you'll get there works well up until the pin starts to turn, but then you should be able to get it out