Identification of F15 2WD?

Ganmain Tony · #1 18-09-18, 11:08

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jacques Reed

Hi Tony and Grant,

As this is a forum to exchange hints and tips here's a good one I have used occasionally which may be of interest:
Measuring things that have curvature or bends is hard to do with a tape measure due to its rigidity. I keep a bit of plastic banding tape used on heavy packages and run that around the object with appropriate tick marks then lay the banding tape out flat and measure that.

In the old days that tape was handy for opening car doors if you locked yourself out but modern designs render it ineffective.

Cheers,

Keeping in mind what Jacques has mentioned above... I have continued to do measurements the fool way I have previously posted.

Jacques

me

The holes middle to middle are 3 and 1/4 inch.

Repeat 3 and 1/4 inch.

Jacques Reed · #2 18-09-18, 22:49

Hi Tony,

Thanks for that measurement. Glad I didn't put any money down on 3-1/2" between centres!

Whatever gets the job done is OK by me too. As most restorers know there are a dozen different ways to do the same job. Just look at the posts on CMP tyre removal and installation!

Thanks again.

Cheers

Ganmain Tony · #3 24-09-18, 06:23

Just amazing the condition of the bearings and other diff internals.
Hard to believe this stuff is nearly eighty years old.

Tried to get a shot of the Ford script on the bearing cup. Can sort of make it out.

New seals arrived 2 months after I had ordered them.

Ganmain Tony · #4 25-09-18, 12:25

Appears to be to tight on passenger side. NOS cables may stretch a bit over time but there is a bit more to it.

Can only be the adjusting pin in the emergency brake lever. I thought its current postion had the lever as far back as it goes but the shoes are hard on the drum.

(Sigh) I'll have another go...tomorrow night.

Keith Webb · #5 25-09-18, 22:37

Maybe the anchor pins for the brake shoes need some adjustment?

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ganmain Tony

Appears to be to tight on passenger side. NOS cables may stretch a bit over time but there is a bit more to it.

Can only be the adjusting pin in the emergency brake lever. I thought its current postion had the lever as far back as it goes but the shoes are hard on the drum.

(Sigh) I'll have have another go...tomorrow night.

Jacques Reed · #6 25-09-18, 23:31

Hi Tony,

You probably know this, but that slotted wheel at the top of the shoes is also an adjustment for the distance between the shoes. There is an eccentric pin behind it which when the wheel is rotated moves the top of the shoes further in or out.

This may also affect the shoes making contact with the drum even with the brake lever all the way off.

Cheers,

Ganmain Tony · #7 26-09-18, 12:36

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jacques Reed

Hi Tony,

You probably know this, but that slotted wheel at the top of the shoes is also an adjustment for the distance between the shoes. There is an eccentric pin behind it which when the wheel is rotated moves the top of the shoes further in or out.

This may also affect the shoes making contact with the drum even with the brake lever all the way off.

Cheers,

Thanks Keefy and Jacques.

Yes that slotted wheel is the adjusting pin in the manual. It was seized and I didnt want to go near it.
The cam also appeared to be at its best setting for the drums to be at their closest.

I have bitten the bullet, removed the lever and applied some heat to it then a quick hit of CRC.

It has come free, so I will play with it tomorrow night and see how it goes.

I realise this sounds bit dumb, but my logic was "I didnt touch that" so if it worked before I took the truck to bits, the problem must lie in the components I have altered.

We will find out!!